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FRAXZ F. DEIXER 



A Complete Handbook of Tailoring 

and Shop Management on the 

Sectional or Group System 



3* 
FRANZ F. DEINER 



F. F. DEINER & COMPANY 

No. 1 EAST 42nd STREET 
NEW YORK 



Copyright 1923, Franz F. Deintr 



s. 



q>° 



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©GI.A597130 
AUG 23 1920 



Preface 

The purpose of this book is to put before the cutter 
and tailor in concise and simple form, the indispensable 
rules for turning out the highest class of garments, as well 
as for the proper management of a shop conducted ac- 
cording to the Sectional or Group System of Tailoring here 
described. The rules of operation which are given here, 
have been thoroughly tried out in the experience of a life- 
time in the tailoring business. It is firmly believed that 
this book will serve the purpose for which it is intended — 
namely, as a help and a guide to the merchant-tailor and to 
the tailor craftsman. The author is convinced that his fel- 
low workers, after carefully studying and trying out his 
group system as here described, will appreciate the effici- 
ency secured by this system through simplicity of opera- 
tion, increased output, and every material advantage. 



Introduction 



The principle of the ''division of labor'' is one on 
which the manufacturer has depended to speed up produc- 
tion ever since the invention of machinery. Continual 
practice in a single operation begets speed and skill, and 
hence a better and more valuable product. It requires a 
dozen or more processes or operations to make so simple 
a thing as a needle or a writing pen. and as the object in- 
creases in complexity and number of parts the division of 
labor thereon becomes more and more minute. The old 
objection urged against the minute division of labor was 
that it narrowed the vision of the worker and blunted his 
ambition — made a mere machine of him. But that was 
in the days when men worked twelve and sixteen hours 
a day. 

With the eight-hour day and the present scale of 
wages, there is plenty of time left to the worker for re- 
laxation of muscles and refreshment of mind. He may, 
if he is ambitious use some of his surplus time in fitting 
himself for performing more highly skilled and more 
highly paid labor. And to give him an opportunity for 
making such advancement is a part of the plan of manage- 
ment for the Sectional Shop. The Group feature of the 
sectional shop also makes it possible and desirable for the 
worker to become familiar with several of the operations 
in order to fit him for "doubling up" when the slack sea- 



INTRODUCTION 



son comes and the output is not large enough to work the 
full number of sections. In short, there does not exist 
today a single valid objection' to the sectional system as 
developed in Mr. Deiner's book, but on the contrary, there 
is a multitude of arguments in its favor. It is indeed 
practically indispensable in some form if the merchant- 
tailor is to make his shop pay a profit. He must use every 
known device for rapid and economical manufacture, and 
he must turn out the very highest class of work. xAil these 
requirements are fully met by this system. Every detail 
is carefully worked out in this book, and the language is 
so simple and the directions so explicit that any apprentice 
can understand and follow the instructions given for each 
of the 74 processes or operations employed in producing 
the completed garment. 

It provides every incentive to the employee to do his 
best and pays him accordingly. It is the system that pays 
the workman the highest attainable wage, and secures for 
the employer the most highly skilled and most highly pro- 
ductive labor. It brings out the very best that is in every 
man and converts it into higher wages and greater profit. 

It is true that the Sectional System must have the 
most careful supervision to secure the best results. The 
foreman must know every employee and the exact measure 
of his efficiency from week to week, and he must make his 
recommendations for promotion accordingly. The fore- 
man must know how to help men as well as how to handle 
them. He must create the morale of the shop and give to 
it a high industrial tone — that is, the main thing thought 
of in the shop must be the work of the shop. The organ- 

8 



INTRODUCTION 



ization of a school -is strongly recommended for the train- 
ing of the low-salaried part of the men. The younger 
part of the force must be especially looked after and in- 
spired with the ambition of attaining the highest standard 
of efficiency and skill. Every employee should be made 
acquainted with work of all the sections, for he might 
have unusual taste or ability to fill some position other 
than the one in which he may happen to be at any time. 
Every workman must be made to feel that he is respon- 
sible for the reputation of the shop. If his work is not 
well done it injures the character of the entire product of 
the concern. 

A wise merchant-tailor seconded by an able foreman 
and assistants can work wonders by following out the Sec- 
tional System in what it does and in what it suggests. 

H. B. Niver. 

New York City 
June 30, 1920 



Sketch of the Author 

The present volume differs from many books on the 
tailoring art in one important respect — it is the work of a 
practical tailor — one who has worked his way from the 
lowest rung of the ladder to the highest. There is NO 
THEORY — the tailor is instructed how to accomplish 
each step in the building of a coat in the simplest and most 
efficient manner. The author knows how to do it BE- 
CAUSE HE HAS HIMSELF WORKED OUT EVERY 
PROCESS. Not only this, but he has trained large bodies 
of men to work together in the production of a large out- 
put. He is not only a tailor, but also an accomplished 
manager and organizer. Perhaps the best way to make 
clear Mr. Deiner's special qualifications for producing a 
practical book on Sectional Tailoring and Shop Manage- 
ment will be to quote from a recent address of Mr. C. F. 
Wetzel to his employees, on the occasion of the presenta- 
tion of a testimonial to Mr. Deiner for his efficient admin- 
iztration of the Wetzel shops: 

"Twenty-five years ago Mr. Deiner came to this country, not 
conversant with the English language; without a knowledge of 
American customs and business methods ; equipped only with 
a thorough knowledge of his trade and an unswerving ambition 
to progress. 

11 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



"After working for several houses, traveling through the 
East, becoming more familiar with our language and American 
business requirements, he came to work for me some eighteen' 
years ag'o. For a period of eight years he proved his value to 
us. His efficient workmanship won him advancement in various 
ways — one in particular resulting in our establishing a special 
department, with him at the head, to train our men in the details 
of working our garments, to produce the style, which we have 
felt has characterized our house from the beginning. 

"The particular points of shoulder expression, shaping and 
draping, were taught to our employes by Mr. Deiner. At the 
end of that time, he expressed a desire to perfect a tailoring sys- 
tem, by gaining a certain experience in the general clothing 
trade and so, for several years, his efforts were devoted to this 
one end. That he has — and how well he has succeeded — is best 
evidenced by the manner in which he has developed his excep- 
tional work with us, which represents the highest grade of fine 
tailoring. 

"If you will but consider how much he has accomplished, 
you will realize that his success has required more than mere 
ambition and his knowledge of good workmanship. These two 
things have, of course, been big factors in his success, but the 
third, and perhaps the greatest, has been his ability to instil in 
his men the desire to do their very best. 

"Having been a workman himself, he knows how much it 
means to work under the best conditions — good light, good air, 
clean workshops and pleasant quarters. It is my pleasure to 
know that you men take a personal pride in maintaining these 
conditions, which is at once reflected in a man's desire to keep 
up his own personal appearance. 

"Assembled here are men of varied nationalities and relig- 
ion; this because Mr. Deiner has made it a point to let nothing 
of this nature interfere with the greater object to be attained, 
viz.: EFFICIENCY. 

12 



SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR 



"I only wish to say these few words to bring home forcibly 
to your minds what a really unusual and happy privilege is ours, 
to be working together in the pleasantest relationship — all striv- 
ing to make our work better, and our clothes the best that can 
be produced, for it is these results that make a business house 
grow as our house has been constantly growing, and as it be- 
comes larger each year, bigger opportunities and better positions 
are opened to each man. It is these united efforts which spell 
SUCCESS for each of us." 



13 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



PREFACE .... 
INTRODUCTION . 
SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR 



Page 

5 

7 

11 



PART I. — Organization and Management of the 
Sectional Shop. 

The Organization and Management of the Sectional Shop . . 17 

The Sectional Shop Ticket ....... 17 

Timing the Sectional Operations ....... 17 

Value of Sectional System in Small Shop '. . . 18 

Improved Conditions of Labor ....... 19 

General Rules .......... 19 

The Work of Absentees 20 

Basis of Wages . . . . ... . . 20 

Effect of Materials and Styles ....... 21 

Time Economies ......... 21 

Grouping in Small Plant ........ 22 

The Lunch Room ......... 22 

Educational Aids .......... 22 

Helpful Results 23 

Shop Lay-Out 23 



PART II.— Shop Lay-Outs and Time Schedules. 



The Group System — Groups One and Two 

Groups Three, Four and Five 

Groups Six, Seven and Eight . 

Groups Nine, Ten, and Try-On . 

Notes on the Time Schedules . 

Shop Lay-Out, Plan A. 

Provisions for Increased Output 

Diagram for Plan A. . 

Plan B. — Medium-Sized Shop . 

Diagram for Plan B. . 

Diagram for Plan C — Large Shop 

Plan C. — A Large Shop 

Plan C. Adapted to Factory Methods 



PART III.— The Sections in Detail 



Sec. 


1. 


Sec. 


1. 


Sec. 


1. 


Sec. 


2. 


Sec. 


3. 


Sec. 


4. 



Cutting Canvas 

Cutting Stripes and Plaids 

How to Fit Linings 

Marking Stitches 

Baster — First Operation 

Overcasting Seams 



25 
. 26 

27 
. 28 

29 
. 30 

31 
. 32 

35 
. 36-7 
40-41 
. 42 

46 



49 
49 
49 
53 

55 
57 



14 



CONTENTS 



TABLE OF CONTENTS— Continued 

Sec. 5. Machinist — First Operation . 

Sec. 6. Underpresser — First Operation . 

Sec. 7. Baster — Second Operation, Pockets 

Sec. 8. Machinist — Second Operation, Stitching Pockets 

Sec. 9. Basting Haircloth on Canvas 

Sec. 10. Padding Stitches 

Sec. 11. Basting Seams for Try-On . 

Sec. 12. Padding Collar .... 

Sec. 13. Underpresser — Second Operation 

Sec. 14. Basting Fronts on Canvas 

Sec. 15. Special Baster for Try-On 

Sec. 16. Basting Shoulders and Collars for Try-On 

Sec. 17. Basting in Sleeves for Try-On 

Sec. 18. Pressing Coat for Try-On . 

Sec. 19-20. Various Extras 

Sec. 21-22. Sleeve-Making 

Sec. 23. Ripping and Pressing After Try-On 

Sec. 24. Re-Marking After Try-On 

Sec. 25. Marking Stitches After Try-On 

Sec. 26. Basting on Pockets and Seams After Try-O 

Sec. 27. Machinist — Re-Stitching 

Sec. 28. Making Vents in Back 

Sec. 29. Underpresser — Third Operation 

Sec. 30. Basting Fronts on Canvas After Try-0 

Sec. 31. Padding Lapels 

Sec. 32. Underpresser — Fourth Operation 

Sec. 33. Shaping Coat 

Sec. 34. Machinist — Fourth Operation . 

Sec. 35. Basting on Tape . 

Sec. 36. Felling Tape .... 

Sec. 37. Underpresser — Fifth Operation 

Special Instructions for Hollow Lapels 

Sec. 38. Facing Baster 

Sec. 39. Machinist — Fifth Operation 

Sec. 40. Underpresser — Sixth Operation 

Sec. 41. Edge Baster .... 

Sec. 42. Basting Lining 

Sec. 43. Basting Shoulder Seams . 

Sec. 44. Seaming Shoulder 

Sec. 45. Underpresser — Seventh Operation 

Sec. 46. Collar-Baster 

Sec. 47. Working in Armhole 

Sec. 48. Underpresser — Eighth Operation 

Sec. 49. Sleeve-Baster .... 

Sec. 50. Sewing in Sleeves . 

Sec. 51. Underpresser — Ninth Operation 

Sec. 52. Collar-Shaper 

Sec. 53. Basting Top Collar . 

Sec. 54. Felling Collar 

Sec. 55. Basting Armholes 

Sec. 56. Machinist — Sixth Operation . 



Page 
57 
57 
58 
60 
60 
62 
62 
62 
64 
64 
65 
66 
67 
68 
69 
69 
71 
72 
72 
73 
73 
74 
74 
75 
75 
76 
76 
78 
78 
78 
79 
80 
83 
84 
85 
85 
87 



89 
89 
89 
90 
90 
91 
92 
94 
94 
95 
95 
96 



15 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



TABLE OF CONTENTS— Continued 



Sec. 57. Cutting Buttonholes . 

Sec. 58. Buttonhole-Making 

Sec. 59. Felling Coat .... 

Sec. 60. Pulling out Bastings 

Sec. 61. Pressing Edges and Buttonholes 

Sec. 62. Pressing off Coat . 

Pressing Body Coats 

Sec. 63. Examiner — First Operation . 

Sec. 64. Button-Sewer 

Sec. 65. Re-Presser . . . 

Sec. 66. Examiner — Second Operation 

Sec. 67. Basting on Silk Facing . 

Sec. 68. Making Silk Collar . 

Sec. 69. Felling Silk Facing 

Sec. 70. Basting on Flat Braid 

Sec. 71. Felling Braid 

Sec. 72. Cording Edges . 

Sec. 73. Piping Edges 

Sec. 74. Putting on Velvet Collar . 
Frock Coats ..... 



Page 

96 

97 

99 

99 

99 

100 

103 

104 

104 

104 

105 

105 

107 

107 

108 

109 

109 

109 

111 

112 



PART IV.— Alterations. 



9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 



How to Try on and Mark for Alterations . 

Break in Forepart in Front of Arm 

Break in Back of Arm ...... 

Low Shoulder ....... 

Wrinkle below Collar ... ... 

Wrinkles below Collar, Back of Arm . 

Erect Figure — Heavy Neck and High Shoulder 

To Give Ease Over Hip and Reduce Surplus in Front 

When a Coat is Too Large Over the Upper Button 

Being Finished ........ 

To Reduce Width of Forepart over the Upper Button 
Too Short a Back ....... 

To Fit a Square-Shouldered Figure 

To Alter for Stooping Figure ..... 



After 



117 
119 
123 
123 
125 
127 
129 
131 

136 
136 
139 
139 
139 



PART V.— Shop Ticket and Records. 

The Deiner Sectional Shop-Ticket and Ledger Records 
The Sectional Shop Ticket ..... 

The Checking Ledger ....... 

The Cost-Accounting Ledger ..... 

Caring for Trimmings and Buttons .... 

Table for Computing Wages ..... 



145 
147 
148 
149 
150 
152 



16 



. PART I. 

The Organization and Manage- 
ment of the Sectional Shop 

The Sectional Shop Ticket. — There are seventy-four 
sections in the "Group" or "Sectional" System ticket, 
including the blanks for extras. Workers must have 
coupons to show for work done, and the nature of extras, 
if any, must be specified on these coupons. Where busi- 
ness is conducted on a large scale, each worker should be 
given a special section to work on, and a standard number 
of pieces should be assigned to him as a day's work. This 
"standard" number is determined by the length of time 
required by an average worker to complete a single opera- 
tion in any given section. When business is conducted on 
a smaller scale, a number of sections are grouped together 
so that the work in each section may be completed in the 
same length of time. Such a grouping is shown in the 
various shop layouts. 

Timing the Sectional Operations. — The Time 
Schedules given on the following pages have been care- 
fully made out by recording the exact time required by 
different workmen for performing the work in each of the 
sectional operations. A foreman should carry a stop 
watch in order to find out to the minute how long it takes 
each of the workmen to do his part on a single coat. There 
is no other way of watching and improving the efficiency 
of the shop, and of keeping an accurate record of the costs. 

17 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



It is of the highest importance also to have standards 
both as to time and quality of work, and every workman 
must understand these standards, so that he may know 
just what is expected of him. If he accomplishes more 
than the average, he should be paid accordingly; and if 
he does less than the standard requirements, he must not 
expect to receive the same wages as his more proficient 
fellow-worker. 

The time schedules here given indicate that 24 hours 
are required to make a sack coat. This time is sufficient 
to carry out the most exacting specifications for building 
a coat. If there should be many extra requirements, the 
time may exceed 24 hours ; and, on the other hand, if the 
work is not so particular, it may easily be possible to make 
a coat in much less time than is here set down. Work 
timed on this plan will enable an employer with an output 
of about twelve suits a week, to run his shop with a group 
of seven workers. If the shop turns out twenty-four suits 
a week, it can be run with a group of twelve workers, with 
an extra man, and a foreman may be employed. 

Value of the Sectional System in the Small Shop. — 
The merchant-tailor with a small business, who uses the 
Sectional System, can, with the help of an assistant, man- 
age a small body of workmen without any other help in 
the way of superintendence. Through daily intercourse 
with his workers, he can maintain a high morale, and thus 
be enabled to turn out work which will give satisfaction 
to his customers, and at a reasonable cost satisfactory to 
himself. 

As business increases a foreman will become a ne- 
cessity. It will, however be to the manager's advantage 
to keep up the same personal relations with his workers 
as when doing business on a small scale. He should by no 

18 



SHOP-MAN A GEMENT 



means tolerate evil' practices, such, for example, as graft, 
either direct or indirect. Foremen will frequently take it 
upon themselves to discharge efficient help in order to 
give work to personal friends, who may be inferior work- 
men. Thus it may happen that an able worker will find 
himself discharged, perhaps because he had refused some 
special favor to the foreman or because the foreman 
wished to replace him with a personal friend. 

It is a good rule for the proprietor to hire or dis- 
charge help himself, and to use the utmost circumspection 
in so doing. Above all things, he must not show any par- 
tiality whatever nor make any distinction as to nationality 
race, or creed. He should not have workers of the same 
nationality grouped at one table, and thus perhaps arouse 
jealousy among the workers. They should, instead, be 
seated according to sections without regard to nationality. 
In this way should one worker improve in his work, his 
neighbor is bound to notice it, and will emulate his ex- 
ample. 

Improved Conditions of Labor.— Happily, the dis- 
charging of workers without good reason, the exacting of 
long hours, low wages, and brutal threats for the slightest 
misdemeanor, are now things of the past. The time has 
come when workers must be treated as equals. Their 
training must be conducted logically and kindly, and regu- 
lar hours must be assigned. Fair wages must be forth- 
coming in order to develop the artistic traits of the work- 
ers and inspire them with ambition to bring about the best 
results for the benefit of both employer and employee. 

General Rides. — Vulgar language should not be per- 
mitted. The men workers should be separated from the 
women workers with a view to avoid talk which does not 
concern the work. The manager should look into all com- 

19 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



plaints himself, and never, in any case, take action until 
due investigation has been made. It must be borne in 
mind that the one who carries rumors is usually the one 
who spreads them. 

Should a foreman or an assistant bring in a complaint 
against any particular worker, and ask for his discharge, 
the manager should ascertain whether the complaint has 
been made on account of poor work, or other causes which 
might affect the efficiency of the organization, or because 
said worker had refused some special favor to the fore- 
man or assistant. The manager should try to adjust mat- 
ters and not discharge workers if he can possibly avoid 
doing so, as the placing of new hands is an expense as well 
as a loss of time. The manager should take as much in- 
terest in the worker who works for him as he takes in the 
firm for which he works. There should be a medicine 
chest at hand, in case of need, and the plant should be 
visited by a doctor at least once a month. 

The Work of Absentees. — Should an employee be 
unable, on account of illness, to continue work, and there 
are no other workers to fill his place, his work should be 
divided among others competent at that kind of work. In 
this way there would be no stoppage in certain sections, 
which might prevent all other sections from getting 
ahead. 

All questions arising in connection with work must be 
decided by the manager himself ; his decision must be en- 
forced with courtesy, and he must direct his assistants to 
act in the same way. Gifts or other special favors from 
workers should not be accepted by the manager or by his 
assistants. 

Basis of Wages. — The manager should observe the 
different workers and note the time it takes each to do the 

20 



SHOP-MAN A GEMENT 



work of his or her respective sections. For instance, if 
a man has been working- at a certain section for a length 
of time, and as a consequence has acquired proficiency 
therein, the output of such a worker will naturally be 
larger than that of a slow worker or a beginner. Such 
a worker should in justice be proportionately compensated 
for his work. 

On the other hand, there will be workers whose work, 
while equally as good in quality, is not equal in quantity 
or output. These men should be given every opportunity 
to hold their positions, for the business is not losing any- 
thing by keeping slow workers, so long as they are paid ac- 
cording to their output. 

Effect of Materials and Styles. — The time required 
for the completion of articles in the different sections 
should be calculated according to the output of the me- 
dium worker. The different kinds of material used and 
the styles followed should also be taken into considera- 
tion; the cuff on a sleeve from hard material takes more 
time to make than one from soft material. The same 
principle applies to every part of a garment. These con- 
siderations should be taken account of by the manager to 
enable him to make allowances which promote friendly 
relations between the management and the employees, as 
mentioned above. Every possible expedient should be 
tried to encourage the workers to acquire skill in artistic 
production as well as in mere volume of work, so that they 
may feel that they are working for their own advance- 
ment as well as for the interests of their employer. 

Time Economies. — The Manager should know the 
number of minutes actually consumed in the work of each 
section. To this end he must observe each worker and see 
that none lose time. In all plants a timekeeper is indis- 

21 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



pensable. The manager should give instructions as to 
the proper handling of the work of each section on the 
entire garment, and these instructions should be typewrit- 
ten or printed on tickets. This plan will save time, as the 
workers need not wait for the foreman to come to them, 
nor to look him up to get the necessary explanations. 

Grouping in Small Plant. — In a small plant the sec- 
tions should be apportioned among the workers in such a 
manner that each group will perform its work in about the 
same time as each of the other groups. In each group 
there should be a man of experience who understands all 
the operations handled by the group. In a large plant, as- 
sign to each section as many workers as are necessary to 
do the work. In any shop where all, the sections, or a large 
number of them are working separately, a sufficient num- 
ber of assistants to the manager should be provided. 

The Lunch Room. — If the plant is large there should 
be a special place set apart for a lunch room, and it should 
be made as cheerful as possible. It should be artistically 
decorated with appropriate pictures, and a book table 
should be at hand provided with the latest fashion maga- 
zines and other periodicals and books dealing with the tail- 
oring craft. 

Educational Aids. — Lectures should be given on cur- 
rent styles and fabrics, and on other subjects relating to the 
tailoring business. An evening school may be conducted 
with classes for teaching the English language to workers 
of foreign birth, as well as classes for teaching efficiency 
in the daily work of the shop. A knowledge of the English 
language will enable the workers to carry out orders with 
greater readiness and intelligence, and the efficiency classes 
will contribute toward speeding up and perfecting the out- 
put of the shop. The teachers for these classes might be 

22 



SHOP-MAN A CEMENT 



found among the workers themselves, choosing such as are 
exceptionally well educated in the language of the country. 
Should the instruction of such teachers not be adequate it 
would pay big returns to hire suitable teachers to give in- 
struction to the workers, and fit them to teach their fellow- 
workmen. 

Helpful Results. — A spirit of mutual helpfulness and 
friendliness will naturally spring up in these classes, which 
will produce harmony among the workers themselves, be- 
tween employer and employees, and a helpful spirit of co- 
operation in the work of building garments. The workers 
should be taught that they must give a fair and just equiva- 
lent in labor, measured in time and output, for the wages 
that they receive. Only on this high ideal of justice, can a 
healthy organization be created and maintained. 

Shop Lay-Out . — Good light, sanitary conditions, and 
ample space are important factors toward enabling the 
workers to turn out perfect work without loss of time. The 
machinists should have the best corner in the loft, with 
the light coming from both sides. 

On the side of the machinist there should be a table 
for the fitter, the seam and pocket-baster, and the stitch- 
marker, who is generally a girl or boy apprentice. If there 
is room near the table of the fitter, the girls who do the 
padding, tape-felling, etc., should be seated there. 

On the other side of the machinist is a table for the 
under-presser. Next comes a table for basting cloth on 
canvas, sleeve-making, shaping, and facing-basting. An 
iron should be near at hand for the shaper to rectify mis- 
takes. In small plants where the edge-basting and lining- 
basting is done by the same worker, he should be provided 
with a stool about two feet high, as he must sit part of the 

23 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



time. In this case the tables are assumed to be three feet 
high. 

The tables for the pressers and underpressers should 
be about 26 inches in height. 

The tape-baster, sleeve-baster, collar-baster, armhole- 
baster, and edge-baster should sit at a finishing table, and 
the sleeve-baster should have an iron convenient. It is a 
good plan to have finishers, such as buttonhole-makers, 
button-sewers, and basting-puller seated near the pressing 
table. 

A table for the pressers, an edge-pressing machine, 
and a wringer for press cloths will complete the necessary- 
shop equipment. (See diagram for shop layout.) 

A time clock should be installed with blue and red. 
Red indicates late. Each worker is his own time-keeper. 

The following Diagrams and the accompanying ex- 
planations give in full the details of laying out Sectional 
Shops of different capacities and the position of every 
worker. 



24 



PART II. 

Shop Lay-Outs and 
Time Schedules 

MANAGEMENT 

Foreman $75.00 per week 

Office Assistant 15.00 per week 

THE GROUP SYSTEM 

FIRST GROUP— One Tailor 
Sections $45.00 per week 

1. Fitting 45 Minutes 

3, 11. Basting- Seams 20 Minutes 

7, 26, 28. Basting and Tacking Breast Pocket 30 Minutes 

9. Basting Haircloth and Padding on Canvas... 25 Minutes 

Total 120 Minutes 

SECOND GROUP— One Machinist 
$50.00 per week 
Sections 

5. Stitching Canvas 5 Minutes 

8. Stitching Underarm Seams and Pockets 25 Minutes 

27. Stitching Sleeves and Other Seams 10 Minutes 

34. Making Linings 20 Minutes 

39. Sewing around Edges 5 Minutes 

56. Stitching Edges 5 Minutes 

Total 70 Minute* 

25 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



THIRD GROUP— One Under presser 

$45.00 per week 
Sections 

6. Pressing Seams and Foreparts 25 Minutes 

13. Pressing Canvas and Collar 20 Minutes 

29. Pressing and Shaping before Basting on 

Canvas 15 Minutes 

32. Pressing Lapels, Chest and Pockets 15 Minutes 

37. Pressing Tape and Linings 15 Minutes 

40. Pressing Edges open 5 Minutes 

45. Pressing Shoulder Seams 5 Minutes 

48. Pressing in Armhole 10 Minutes 

51. Pressing Sleeves and Collar for Shaping 25 Minutes 

Total 135 Minutes 



FOURTH GROUP— Three Women 

$75.00 per week 
Sections 

2, 25. Marking-Stitches 25 Minutes 

4. Overcasting Seams 5 Minutes 

10. Padding Canvas 20 Minutes 

12. Padding Collar 25 and up 

31. Padding Lapels and Putting Bartacks on 

Pockets 60 Minutes 

36. Felling Tape 30 Minutes 

54, 59. Felling Coat and Collar, and Putting on 

Hanger and Label 120 Minutes 

58. Making Buttonholes 35 Minutes 

60. Pulling Bastings and Cleaning 25 Minutes 

64. Sewing on Buttons 15 Minutes 

Total , 360 Minutes 

FIFTH GROUP— One Tailor 

$50.00 per week 
Sections 
23, 24. Ripping, Pressing and Re-marking after 

Try-on Extra time 

14, 30. Basting Fronts on Canvas 25 Minutes 

26 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 



33, 52. Shaping Coa-t and Collar, Cutting around 
Canvas, Fitting Lining and Marking inside 

Pockets 40 Minutes 

35. Basting Tape 30 Minutes 

38. Basting Facing 25 Minutes 

Total 120 Minutes 



SIXTH GROUP— One Tailor 

$40.00 per week 
Sections 

21. Marking Sleeves, Making Vent and Bottom, 

and Basting Back Seam . . , 60 Minutes 

22. Pressing Seams, Operating and Putting in 

Lining 60 Minutes 

Total 120 Minutes 



SEVENTH GROUP— One Tailor 

$45.00 per week 
Sections 

41. Edge-Basting 40 Minutes 

42. Lining-Basting 55 Minutes 

43. Shoulder-Basting 10 Minutes 

44. Seaming: Shoulders 15 Minutes 



Total 120 Minutes 

EIGHTH GROUP— One Tailor 

$45.00 per week 
Sections 

46. Basting in Collar and Finishing on the inside. 25 Minutes 

47. Working in Armholes 20 Minutes 

49. Basting Sleeves 60 Minutes 

50. Sewing in Sleeves by Hand 20 Minutes 



Total 125 Minutes 

27 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



NINTH GROUP— One Tailor 

$45.00 per week 
Sections 

53. Basting in Top Collar 40 Minutes 

55. Basting Armholes and Putting in Wadding. . 60 Minutes 

57. Cutting Buttonholes 5 Minutes 

63, 66. Marking Position for Buttons and Examin- 
ing Coat 30 Minutes 



Total 135 Minutes 

TENTH GROUP— One Presser 

$50.00 per week 
Sections 

61, 62, 65. Pressing Coat 120 Minutes 



GRAND TOTAL— Time of Making One Coat. . . 24 Hours 

EXTRA GROUP FOR TRY-ONS— One Tailor 

$40.00 per week 
Sections 

15. Turning in Edges, Basting Facings, and Fore- 

part Linings for Try-on 40 Minutes 

16. Basting Shoulders, Collar and the Seams and 

Bottoms of Sleeves 25 Minutes 

17. Working in Armholes, Pressing them and 

Basting in Sleeves 40 Minutes 

18. Pressing Try-on 30 Minutes 

19, 20, 67, 76. Various Extras Extra Time 



Total 135 Minutes 



Total Number of Employees 15 

Total Salaries $620.00 

Total Production per week 24 Coats 

Average Cost per Coat $25.80 

28 



. LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 



The Machinist and Underpresser. — It will be noted 
that according to the above time schedules, these two 
workers are not fully employed when the output is four 
coats a day. Any spare time that they have may ( be used 
in helping in any of the other sections where their services 
can be profitably employed. 



NOTES ON TIME SCHEDULES 

Comments on Extras. — In this time schedule it is 
assumed that there will be no try-ons. If there should be 
a try-on, sections 15, 16 and 17 must be given to an extra 
man. Sections 19 and 20 also are for extra work prepar- 
atory for try-ons, and will also be given to an extra man. 

Try-ons with Pockets. — Section 7 refers to try-ons 
with pockets. If the work of this section is done, section 
26 will be omitted. If, on the other hand, the try-on is a 
full-baste, Section 7 will be omitted. 

The work of section 14 also applies to try-ons with pock- 
ets, and if this work is done, section 30 is omitted; but if 
the garment is a full-baste, both sections are required. 

Vents. — Section 28 makes provision for vents. This 
work is given to the seam-baster, who must be allowed 
extra time for doing it. 

Marking-Stitches. — Section 25 provides for marking- 
stitches in the case of garments which are re-cut after 
try-on. 

Other Extras. — Sections 67-76 provide for all sorts of 
extras, for which extra time must be allowed. 

Time Schedules Provide for Standard Coat. — The 
time schedules here given — not including the extras — pro- 

29 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



o 




3 

Oh 

O 






Oh 
O 

42 



B 

< 

I 

<! 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 



vide for the building of a coat according to the most 
exacting specifications. If the demands of the work are 
not so exacting, and much of it is machine work, a coat 
may be completed in much less time. Again, if the shop 
is large enough to employ one or more men in each section, 
the time may be reduced nearly one-half. 

PLAN A— FOURTEEN WORKERS 

Plan A shows the lay-out of a small sectional shop 
producing four coats a day of eight working hours. This 
shop is 50 x 25 feet, being one-half the usual sized loft. 
It should be well-lighted from two sides, or from a sky- 
light in addition, has an elevator and stairway, and toilet 
accommodations for both sexes, according to the rules 
governing factory construction. It has an office for a 
foreman and his assistants, located in the center of the 
room near the stairway. The tables for the employees are 
so arranged as to eliminate loss of time in transferring the 
garments from hand to hand in the process of making. 

The Foreman works on the right of T-4, where he 
receives and distributes the work. It is his duty to wait 
on all the workers so that none of them shall lose time in 
looking for materials needed in their work. In a small 
plant he is to be his own examiner. He should also do the 
re-marking after try-on, which is set down in Group Five 
as an extra. He may also mark for buttons and button- 
holes. 

The extra man for try-ons works at the Foreman's 
table. 

T-l is a table for the Fitter and for a girl when put- 
ting in marking-stitches. On the other side of the table 
are two tailors. The Fitter does the work laid out in 
Group One. The two tailors at the Fitter's table do the 
work laid out in Group Five and Group Six. 

31 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



T-2 is a station for four tailors, who do the work laid 
out in Groups Three, Seven, Nine and Ten. 

T-3 is a station for one presser next to the window, 
with reserve space for three additional tailors when 
needed. 

T-4 is a station for four tailors when they are required 
for additional work resulting from an increase of business. 

At the left of T-l is the station for the machinist. The 
station will accommodate an extra machinist, and is pro- 
vided with an extra machine. 

G is a station for three girls, who do the work laid out 
in Group Four. This station will accommodate two extra 
girls when needed. 

T is a pressing machine with a tub and wringer. There 
is a horse placed near the pressing-machine, and also one 
near the machine to hold the work. The machinist re- 
quires a box to hold his unfinished work. Back of the 
Foreman's table are racks fixed on the walls for hanging 
up clothes. 

In a small plant the machines should be provided with 
individual motors. 

A small motor and a Number 1 blower should be pro- 
vided when pressing is done with blower irons using a 
mixed flame. 

PROVISIONS FOR INCREASED OUTPUT 

With 12 regular workers, a foreman, and one extra 
tailor to work on try-ons, the normal output of this shop 
will be 24 coats a week. But it is always advisable to 

32 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 



provide for an increase of business, or at least to have 
room and equipment to take care of extra work in the 
busy season, when additional workers must be employed. 

Let us assume that it is necessary to produce 7 coats a 
day instead of 4. The shop would then require in addi- 
tion to the regular force: 



'S3' 

Four regular tailors 
One tailor for try-ons 
One additional presser 
Two additional women 

It now becomes necessary to re-adjust the work of the 
sectional Groups somewhat, in order that a full day's work 
may be provided for every one, and that the production of 
garments may proceed regularly. In making these re- 
adjustments, assign to: 

Additional Tailor No. i, from Group One, basting 
haircloth and padding on canvas, 6 coats. Assign to him 
also from Group One 7 coats for pocket-basting. Give 
him also from Group Five, 5 coats for basting fronts on 
canvas. This provides a full day's work, and leaves to 
the tailor in Group One also a full day's work. 

Additional Tailor No. 2 will work in Group Five. He 
will baste two fronts on canvas, baste tape on the 7 coats, 
and help in Group Six, making two pairs of sleeves. For 
the 15 minutes remaining to him, he may help in the extra 
work for ripping and pressing after try-on. 

The important tailor in Group Five is the shaper. He 
will shape the 7 coats, and also baste facing on them. 
During the remaining 95 minutes he will re-fit linings and 
mark breast pockets. 

33 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



Additional Tailor No. 3 will make one pair of sleeves 
in Group Six, baste linings in 4 coats in Group Seven, baste 
and sew by hand the shoulder seams of 7 coats in Group 
Seven. He also will help the tailor in Group Seven on 
lining-basting during the remaining 20 minutes. This will 
leave exactly a day's work for the regular tailor in Group 
Seven. 

Additional Tailor No. 4 will work in Group Eight, 
taking over Sections 46 and 47, "Basting on Collar," etc., 
and also Section 53, "Basting top collar." During the 
remaining hour he is to help in basting sleeves for try-on 
— basting the back seam and turning in the bottom. 

Additional Tailor for Try-ons. This man will perform 
the work of Sections 15, 16 and 17 on try-ons, and give 
the remaining 120 minutes to the foreman in the work of 
ripping and pressing after try-on, and in performing any 
other extra work required. 



The Additional Presser will press the three additional 
ts. His remaining time will be giv< 
presser in the work of pressing try-ons. 



coats. His remaining time will be given to the regular 



The Additional Women will help in the regular work 
of Group Four, and give their remaining time in helping 
wherever their time can be profitably used. One of the 
women may be assigned to help out the machinist in seam- 
ing sleeve-linings and piecing out canvas. 

Saving on Increased Output. — It is evident that in 
increasing the output from 24 coats a week to 42 coats a 
week, through the addition of the eight workers above 
mentioned, a considerable saving of costs will be effected. 
This saving is approximately 16 and two-thirds per cent. 

34 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 



PLAN B— A MEDIUM SIZED SHOP 

Plan B gives the lay-out of a shop, 100 x 25 feet, with 
a capacity of 16 coats a day, or four times the minimum 
output of the shop described in Plan A. It also allows for 
additional space in order to increase the output, or for 
taking care of heavier work which requires more workers. 

Workers Required. — As the output of this shop is four 
times that provided for in Plan A, it might be thought that 
four times as many workers would be required. But this 
is not quite the case, for the reason that some of the work- 
ers in Plan A were not fully employed. The machinist 
and underpresser, for example, had time to spare. More- 
over, three sleeve-makers will be force enough to make 16 
pairs of sleeves, if they are plain and if the stitching is 
done by the machinist. On the other hand, in this larger 
plant, an assistant to the foreman will be needed, and also 
one examiner and one "all-around" man to fill in where- 
ever needed. 

A Worker for Each Section. — In the distribution of 
work under this plan, a single section should be assigned 
to each worker as far as this is possible. Failing this, 
sections of the same degree of difficulty should be grouped 
together, so that an economical salary schedule can be ar- 
ranged. For example, we group sections 2, 4, 25 and 60 
(marking-stitches, overcasting, pulling bastings, etc.) 
because all this work can be done by the lowest-priced 
labor ; whereas if padding and felling were combined with 
these operations, we should have a high-priced girl doing 
low-priced labor. 

Expansion of the "Ten Groups." — The ten groups of 
sections already given form the foundation for the dis- 
tribution of work in this larger shop. These sections are 
arranged in the same order as the workers are arranged 

35 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



\ u« 




Plan B — A medium-sized shop accommodating 53 workers with 
the numbers in the Time-Schedules, and indicate where each 
some cases several of the Sectional Operations are performed by 
descriptions and groups. 



in the shop, and indicate the continuous progress of the 
garment from the fitter to the presser. In expanding these 
groups so that instead of a minimum production of four 
coats a day, we shall have a minimum of 16 coats a day, 
the following division of the work is recommended: 



FIRST GROUP— Four Tailors 

No. Men Sections 

1 1 

1 1, 3, 11 

1 7, 26, 28 
1 9 



Totals 



Time — One Coat 
39 Minutes 
30 Minutes 
30 Minutes 
20 Minutes 

119 Minutes 
36 



Salary 

$45.00 

40.00 

40.00 

40.00 

$165.00 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 





OFFICE 



woniNS 
■Room 



± 



i <s sca^ 



> MENS fc)±f 




)rovisions for increased output. The numbers correspond with 
peration in coat-making is carried on. It will be noted that in 
tie same worker. For full explanation see the accompanying 




No. Men 
1 
1 
1 



SECOND GROUP— Three Machinists 



Sections 
8, 56 
5, 34 

27, 39 



Time — One Coat 
28 Minutes 
25 Minutes 
15 Minutes 



Total 68 Minutes 



Salary 

$50.00 
45.00 
40.00 

$135.00 



THIRD GROUP- 

No. Men Sections 

1 6, 13 

1 29, 32, 37 

1 40, 45, 48 

1 51 

Totals 



-Three Underpressers 

Time — One Coat Salary 

39 Minutes $40.00 

30 Minutes 45.00 

20 Minutes 45.00 

25 Minutes 45.00 



114 Minutes 
37 



$175.00 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



FOURTH GROUP— Twelve Girls 



No. Girl: 


> Sections 


Time — One Coat 


Salary 


2 


2, 4, 25, 60 


55 Minutes 


$30.00 


3 


10, 12, 31 


90 Minutes 


60.00 


1 


36 


30 Minutes 


20.00 


4 


54, 59 


120 Minutes 


100.00 


1 


58 


30 Minutes 


30.00 


1 


64 
Totals 


15 Minutes 


20.00 




. . . 320 Minutes 


$260.00 




FIFTH GROUP— Four Tailors 




No. Men 


Sections 


Time — One Coat 


Salary 


1 


14 or 30 


25 Minutes 


$40.00 


1 


33, 52 


40 Minutes 


50.00 


1 


35 


30 Minutes 


40.00 


1 


38 


25 Minutes 


40.00 




. . . 120 Minutes 


$170.00 



Sections 23, 24 and 26 are attended to by the cutting depart- 
ment or by the foreman, when try-ons are full baste without 
pocket. Tailor No. 4 will have time left to help shaper. 

SIXTH GROUP— Three Tailors 

No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 

2 21 60 Minutes $80.00 

1 22 30 Minutes 40.00 



Totals 90 Minutes $120.00 

SEVENTH GROUP— Four Tailors 

No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 

1 41 30 Minutes $45.00 

1 42 55 Minutes 45.00 

1 41,42 helps Nos. land 2 40.00 

1 43, 44 25 Minutes 40.00 



Totals 120 Minutes $175.00 

38 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 



EIGHTH GROUP— Three Tailors, One Girl 

No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 

1 46, 47 40 Minutes $45.00 

2 49 60 Minutes 90.00 
1 Girl 50 20 Minutes 20.00 



Totals 130 Minutes $155.00 

NINTH GROUP— Tzvo Tailors and One Girl 

No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 

2 55 60 Minutes $90.00 

2 53 40 Minutes 80.00 

Totals 80 Minutes $170.00 

I 
TENTH GROUP— Four Pressers 

No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 

3 61, 62, 65 90 Minutes $150.00 
1-Try-on 18 30 Minutes 40.00 

Totals 120 Minutes $190.00 

The Try-on Presser will have time to press one coat, and to 
assist in pressing edges. 

EXTRA GROUP— Eight Men 

Salary 

Foreman $75.00 

Assistant 60.00 

One Examiner — Sections 57, 63, 66 45.00 

Four Tailors for Try-ons — Sections 15, 16, 17 160.00 

One All-round Man 45.00 

Total Salaries $385.00 

Total Number of Workers 53 

Total Salaries $2,290.00 

Total Coats per week 96 

Average Cost per coat 23.85 

39 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



CO 




1 


50 
9) 


■V,] 




1 




PS 




co 




1 








1 






■% 


I t* 




1 


^J- 




I ** 


1 
• 


1 


<0 


8 

CM 



3 fl 



3 11 




37 *0 





21 



21 



21 22 



is is /<? 

18 16 17 17 




MOTO 


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ELE 

rn 


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Plan C — This plan gives the lay-out of a shop with a capacity o 
tional numbers give the station of every worker. Where th 
14 and 30, 43 and 45, 62 and 65, 52 and 55, etc., the work of th 
strictly necessary, it will in general be found more economica 
another. 

40 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 




l coats a week with a working force of 137 people. The sec- 
nbers are placed close together, as for example 2 and 25 
> sections is done by the same person. While this is not 
it saves delay in moving the garments from one point to 



41 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



PLAN C— A LARGE SHOP 

This plan gives the lay-out of a large custom-tailoring 
shop, 100 x 50 feet, equipped for turning out a minimum 
of 50 coats per day. Like Plan B it provides for increased 
production and additional workers when circumstances 
require. The diagram and accompanying explanations 
show the location of all workers and the apparatus used. 
By referring to these it will be a simple matter to lay out 
and equip a shop corresponding to the diagram. 

The Working Force. — In Plan A we had 14 workers 
and an output of 4 coats a day. In this larger shop we 
have \2y 2 times the output of the small shop, or 50 coats 
a day; but we do not require \2y 2 times as many workers, 
which would be, all told, 175. Instead, our force comprises 
only 132 people, 38 of whom are women. The average 
salary is about $30.00 a week. The salaries set down 
opposite the workers are those prevailing in New York 
City. In other parts of the country they may be consider- 
ably less. Salaries vary also according to prevailing 
economic conditions, and according to the quality of help 
employed. Every manager must make out his own salary 
list, and compute his own costs. 

Division of Work and Time Schedules. — In this shop 
we have the complete development of the Sectional Sys- 
tem, one or more workers being assigned to each section 
except where it is more economical to combine two or more 
sections and assign them to a group of workers as a matter 
of convenience and to save time. The time allowance re- 
mains the same on some sections as in the other plans, but 
in the majority of cases it is considerably less. Some oper- 
ations require the same time, whether the worker handles 
one coat or many, while in other operations much time is 
saved by always having a supply of garments at hand, so 

42 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 



that no worker loses time in waiting for somebody to pass 
the work to him. 

Time is saved also through the added skill acquired by 
the worker in doing the same kind of work continuously 
and not shifting from one job to another. 

Saving on Labor Costs. — It will be noted that the 
average cost per coat is reduced in this plan to $18.16, 
even at the high wages taken as a basis, which is about 
$6.00 less than in Plan B, and which in turn was about 
$2.00 less than in Plan A. This is a perfectly logical out- 
come of the system, for the reason that all the low grade 
work is done by low-priced labor, and the distribution of 
work is such as to eliminate all loss of time. 

The following schedule gives in full the time allowed 
for each of the sectional operations on a single garment, 
the number of workers required in each of the sectional 
groups, and their estimated weekly salaries. 

GROUP ONE— Eleven Tailors 

Sections Time — One Coat No. Men Salaries 

1 39 Minutes 4 $160.00 

3, 11 20 Minutes 2 90.00 

9 20 Minutes 2 80.00 

7, 28 29 Minutes 3 135.00 

GROUP TWO— Seven Machinists 

5 5 Minutes 1 40.00 
8 19 Minutes 2 100.00 

27 9 Minutes 1 40.00 

34 19 Minutes 2 90.00 

39, 56 9 Minutes 1 50.00 

GROUP THREE — Eleven Under pressers 

6 20 Minutes 2 90.00 
.'13 19 Minutes 2 80.00 

43 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



29 10 Minutes 
32 9 Minutes 
37 15 Minutes 
40, 45 9 Minutes 
48 9 Minutes 
51 25 Minutes 




2 


45.00 
40.00 
45.00 
40.00 
40.00 
90.00 


GROUP FOUR—Thirty- 


six Women 




2, 4, 25 25 Minutes 
10 19 Minutes 
12 25 Minutes 
31 55 Minutes 
36 25 Minutes 
54, 59 120 Minutes 
58 29 Minutes 
60 25 Minutes 
64 13 Minutes 




3 
2 
3 
6 
3 

12 
3 
2 
2 


45.00 
40.00 
60.00 

120.00 
60.00 

300.00 
90.00 
30.00 
40.00 


GROUP FIVE- 


— Ten Tailors 




14, 30 20 Minutes 

33, 52 29 Minutes 

35 29 Minutes 

38 19 Minutes 




2 
3 
3 
2 


80.00 
140.00 
120.00 

80.00 


GROUP SIX— 


Nine Tailors 




21 58 Minutes 

22 29 Minutes 




6 
3 


270.00 
120.00 



GROUP SEVEN— Eight Men; One Woman 

41 30 Minutes 3 135.00 

42 46 Minutes 4 180.00 

43 9 Minutes 1 40.00 

44 10 Minutes 1 woman 20.00 

GROUP EIGHT— Thirteen Tailors 



46 


25 Minutes 


2 


90.00 


47 


15 Minutes 


1 


40.00 


49 


58 Minutes 


6 


270.00 


50 


19 Minutes 


2 women 


40.00 



44 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 



GROUP NINE— Nine Men; Two Women 

53 39 Minutes 4 160.00 

55 - 58 Minutes 6 men 270.00. 

57 5 and up all-round man 45.00 

63, 66 19 Minutes 2 men 90.00 

GROUP TEN— Eight Pressers 
61 10 Minutes 1 40.00 

62, 65 85 Minutes 7 350.00 

EXTRA GROUP— Fourteen Try-on Makers 

15 40 Minutes 4 160.00 

16 25 Minutes 3 120.00 

17 40 Minutes 4 160.00 

18 25 Minutes 3 pressers 120.00 

Manager and Assistants 

Manager $100.00 

Two Assistants 120.00 

All-round Man 45.00 

Office Assistant 25.00 

Total Number of Workers 142 

Total Salaries $5,450.00 

Total Production 300 Coats 

Average Cost per Coat $18.16 

In this shop it will be the duty of one of the assistant 
foremen to inspect the work of the machinists and basters 
as far as and including the lining-basters. The second 
assistant will manage the work from this point until the 
completiotn of the garment. 

The resulting average cost shows clearly the great 
advantage of running a full-sized shop with a full com- 
plement of workers. The time allowances provide for the 
very highest grade of custom work. But if it is desired 
to introduce certain modifications properly belonging to- 
factory methods, costs may be still further reduced. 

45 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



PLAN C— ADAPTED TO FACTORY METHODS 

If it is desired to produce a lower-priced grade of 
coats than has been provided for in the previous plan, 
many of the sectional operations there given may be omit- 
ted altogether, and the time for performing certain others 
materially reduced. Garments will be cut in sizes and 
quantities, as well as the canvases, fittings, etc. Basting 
will be largely omitted, and machine-stitching will take 
place of hand work. A greater number of skilled machin- 
ists will be employed, who can do the machine work with- 
out basting. More machines will be used for under- 
pressing. In this way a large proportion of the female 
help can be dispensed with. 

The following is a complete schedule for the operation 
of a shop on this plan. The daily production will be placed 
at 50 coats a day in order to facilitate compafsion with 
the previous plan. 

GROUP ONE— One Tailor 
Sections Time Workers Salaries 

1 5 1 $45.00 

3, 7, 9, 28 (omitted) 

Under this plan one fitter can handle 100 coats a day. 
All basting is omitted. The breast pockets are made by 
machine. Canvases are furnished ready-made. 



GROUP TWO— Five Machinists 


Sections Time Workers 


Salaries 


5 (omitted) 




8 19 2 


$150.00 


27 9 1 


40.00 


34 19 1 


45.00 


39, 56 9 1 


50.00 



46 



LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 



Section 5 is omitted as canvases are ready-made. One 
or more additional operators will be needed for sewing in 
sleeves; his salary is estimated at $50.00 a week. 

GROUP THREE — Three Underpressers 

6, 13, 29, 32, 40, 45, 48, 51. As the work of these sec- 
tions is almost entirely done with machines, only three 
men will be required. Total salary $135.00. 

GROUP FOUR — Thirteen Women; One Machinist 



Sections 


Time 


Workers 


Salaries 


2 


9 


1 


$20.00 


54, 59 


60 


7 


175.00 


58 


29 


2 


60.00 


60 


15 


1 


15.00 


64 


15 


2 


40.00 



The remaining sections of this group, 4, 10, 12, 25, 31 
and 36, are done by one skilled machinist — $60.00. 

GROUP FIVE— Three Tailors 

Sections Time Workers Salaries 

14,30 9 1 $40.00 

33,52 9 1 50.00 

38 9 1 40.00 

Worker in section 38 will have time to help in section 
42 of Group Six. 

GROUP SIX— One Tailor 

Sections Time Workers Salaries 

21, 22 9 1 $40.00 

47 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



GROUP SEVEN— Three Tailors 

41 20 2 90.00 

42 15 1 45.00 

43 (omitted) 

44 (done by machinist who works in 39, 56) 

GROUP EIGHT— Four Tailors 

46 19 1 45.00 

47, 49 (done by machinist) 

53 19 2 90.00 

GROUP NINE— Three Tailors 

50 (done by machinist) 

55 19 2 90.00 

57 (done by all-around man) 

63,66 9 1 45.00 

t. 

GROUP TEN— Eight Pressers 

18 (omitted) 

61 9 1 40.00 

62 55 6 330.00 
65 9 1 55.00 

Manager and Assistants 

Manager $100.00 

Two Assistants 120.00 

One All-around Man 45.00 

One Office Assistant 25.00 



Total Number of Employees 50 

Total Salaries $2,125.00 

Total Production per week 300 Coats 

Average Cost per Coat $7.00 

48 



PART III. 

The Sections in Detail 

SECTION I 

Cutting Canvas. — Cut canvas as illustrated in Dia- 
gram 1, placing the straight weave of the' canvas upon the 
crease of the lapel. This method will make the canvas 
over the body bias. The shoulder-piece should also be cut 
bias according to the weave as shown in Diagram 1. 

Fitting Facings on Stripes and Plaids. — On striped 
materials the facings should be cut so that the stripes run 
straight with the edges of the lapels. The distance of the 
stripe from the edge of the lapel should be the same on 
both sides. 

If the material is plaided, the distance of the plaids 
from the edge of the lapel must be the same on both sides 
from the top down, as in the case of stripes. It is very 
offensive to see stripes or plaids out of symmetry. These 
details should be strictly attended to by the cutter, but the 
tailor who does the fitting should also attend to this matter. 

How to Fit Linings. — In fitting the linings, do not 
fit them flat on the table, except as provided in Section 33, 
for if you do this there will be too much lining in front of 
armhole, after it is basted in. Many tailors today make 
this mistake. The correct method is to fit the lining after 

49 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 







Diagram 1 — Cutting Canvas and Haircloth. 
50 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



Diagram 2. Cutting Canvas and Haircloth. This 
diagram shows patterns laid on the canvas and haircloth 
in the proper position for cutting. The canvas pattern, on 
the right of the diagram, is intended for a very chesty 
and corpulent figure where a reducer is worn. The hair- 
cloth pattern, on the left, will serve for any figure. The 
slanting white line crossing the diagram shows where the 
canvas is to be cut. One piece is then reversed and laid 
over the other so that both foreparts may be cut at the 
same time. The separate shoulder-piece at the top is laid 
on the canvas so that the rounded side will come out bias. 
The canvas should be notched, as indicated on the pattern 
so that it may easily be matched to the shoulder. The 
collar pattern is shown in the upper right-hand corner. 
The front of the collar is laid along the selvage of the 
canvas in order to have the canvas bias, and so keep the 
front gorge from stretching. The figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 
indicate oval wedges to be taken out, the length and width 
of the wedges to be proportionate to the size of the body. 
The dotted lines indicate where the haircloth is to go. The 
dotted line indicated by 5 shows how far the haircloth is 
to go for a stationary front. The pattern for this front 
is shown in numbers 9 to 10 in the lower left-hand corner, 
where it is placed on the haircloth in the proper position 
for cutting. The notches are given for matching the 
shoulder-piece to the shoulder. The six slits show how 
the haircloth is to be cut into with the weave and not across 
the hair. CAUTION : If the shoulder-piece should be 
cut as shown at number 8 (which is often done), it would 
be WRONG, as the rounded edge would be straight where 
it should be bias. The dotted line at 6 shows how far the 
haircloth should come on a soft roll. This pattern is 
shown at 7 placed on the haircloth in the proper position 
for cutting out. The shoulder-piece also is shown, the 
white notches indicating where it is to be matched to the 
shoulder. The size of this pattern is shown between the 

51 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Diagram 2 — Cutting canvas. The shoulder-piece is shown at 
the top. The rounded side should be cut bias. The "fish" to be 
taken out of the shoulder is located by measuring 1 inch down 
from the gorge, and from 3 to 3j4 inches down from top of arm. 

52 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIE 



dotted lines where the shoulder-piece is placed on the 
canvas in the upper part of the diagram. 



the forepart has been basted on canvas and pressed into 
shape. Sew the underarm seam in lining, and then place 
this seam accurately on top of the underarm seam of the 
cloth, taking care to provide for sufficient length over the 
chest. 

Turn the lining at the top of the shoulder toward the 
front of arm. If the lapel has a curve at the edge, press 
the facing back so as to have the stripes run in line with 
the edges. In silk linings that have a diagonal weave, if 
the bias strips are cut double, one of the strips will wrinkle 
and will look as if it had been put on too long, thus pro- 
ducing a corkscrew effect. To avoid this defect the strips 
should be cut from a single layer of silk straight across the 
diagonal stripe. If the silk is not diagonal, it is necessary, 
to make sure that the binding will not wrinkle, to give a 
sample to the operator to try out. Linings for try-ons 
should be cut large enough to be refitted afterward by the 
same fitter or shaper. 

SECTION II 

MARKING-STITCHES 

The marking-stitches of side seams, and also of the 
edges should be ^4 of an inch in length, but on shoulders, 
and on all other curves and hollows, they should be y% of 
an inch long with a loop. It is necessary to use scissors 
without points to split the marking-stitches. In this oper- 
ation, lift one side of the cloth, opening up no more than 
the necessary length to cut through with the scissors, thus 
leaving on both sides the necessary length of marking 
thread. 

53 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Diagram 3— Showing the Method of Putting in Marking- 
Stitches as described in Section II. 

54 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



This work can easily be done by a girl or boy appren- 
tice, who should be cautioned not to cut the material. 

SECTION III 

BASTER FIRST OPERATION 

In basting underarm or side-body seams from the 
pocket up to the hollow of the waist, where a notch is very 




Diagram A — Basting Underarm Seam from 

Pocket up to Hollow of Waist as 

Described in Section III 



55 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



necessary, both sides should be exactly equal in length. 
The length of both sides should also be equal from the said 
notch up to within three inches below the armhole. At 
this point another notch is necessary. From this second 
notch up to the armhole, the side body should be from }i 
to 34 of an i nc h shorter than the forepart for this reason. 
In front of the arms is a muscular prominence, and back 
of the arm is the shoulder blade, while between the two is 




Diagram 5 — Basting Underarm Seam from "Second Notch" up 
to the Armhole, as described in Section III. 



56 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



a hollow. Therefore putting in the side body short gives 
a clean fit under the arm. Pressing the surplus in and 
forward gives room over the muscular prominence and 
shoulder blade. Linings on flaps and welts should be 
basted, and then passed over to the operator. 

SECTION IV 

OVERCASTING SEAMS 

The seams in materials that ravel easily, should be 
overcast, either with silk of the same color or with white 
basting cotton. Care should be taken not to make stitches 
too deep, and thus interfere with, or show at the seam. 

SECTION V 

MACHINIST STITCHING CANVAS 

In sewing seams, 15 stitches to the inch is the required 
number; while in stitching edges, about 18 stitches to the 
inch are allowed. Some materials may require even 20 
stitches. If stitches are too short on certain fine worsteds, 
serged or broadcloths, they are likely to cut the cloth, 
especially in re-sewing after alterations. 

SECTION VI 

UNDERPRESSER FIRST OPERATION 

In pressing all kinds of seams, the presser should be 
careful to place the middle of the iron exactly over the 
seam, so that equal length, or fullness, will be produced on 
both sides of the iron, and prevent either side from swing- 
ing in the wrong direction. This fullness must be pressed 
short in order to produce any line desired, and to have the 
drape in its proper place. Press foreparts in shape, 
according to the way they were cut, whether for a chesty 
or corpulent figure. 

57 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



SECTION VII 

BASTER ON POCKETS SECOND OPERATION 

Basting on Pocket-Stay.— The stay should not be 
wider than \y 2 inches and, for a skeleton coat, should be 
of the same material as the pocket. 

If the garment is to be made up in skeleton form, the 
stay must be 2 inches in width, so that it can be sufficiently 
turned in and felled to the bellows pocket, instead of to the 
forepart. Thus the coat will look as if it were fully lined. 
A hanging pocket covered with silk may be made on the 
same principle. 

Basting for Sewing. — The baster who bastes on flaps 
and pocket-facings makes the welt and breast pocket also, 
and bastes them for the machine-stitching. When ma- 
chine sewing is done, the baster should baste the pockets 
and tack the breast-pocket. On second class work the 
operator sews on flaps, breast-pockets, and facing without 
basting. He does the stitching also without basting. 
Great care should be taken in stitching pockets, particu- 
larly the right one, as the machine is liable to push the 
cloth forward below the flap of the pocket, causing wrin- 
kle in front of flap, especially where a front fish has been 
taken out in the forepart. To avoid this break, have the 
pocket stay basted a trifle shorter in the front part of right 
pocket, while on the left pocket the stay should be kept a 
trifle shorter in the.backpart of pocket. 

If this precaution is taken, any fullness at the back of 
pocket near the flap will be avoided, and the forepart in 
front of the pocket will be smooth without any break or 
wrinkle. 

58 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 




Diagram 3 — Pressing Seams. This cut illustrates the correct 
method of pressing seams as described in Section VI. 



59 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 
SECTION VIII 

MACHINIST SECOND OPERATION 

Stitching Pockets. — Before stitching- around pockets, 
particularly on the right forepart, pull the part of the 
pocket under the flap toward the back. The upper part of 
pocket with flap must be pulled forward as this also helps 
to prevent a break in front of flap, as explained in the 
previous Section. 

This mentioned defect often occurs at the back of the 
left side pocket. Great care must be taken to have pockets 
adjusted so that the stripes run straight, before sewing 
pockets together. 

SECTION IX 

BASTING HAIRCLOTH ON CANVAS 

Cutting Haircloth. — For stationary front, place the 
haircloth on top of canvas, keeping it full over the chest, 
with the edge of the haircloth about Yi inch away from 
the crease of lapel; baste through the center of haircloth 
on to canvas. Cut into the haircloth about two inches on 
each side, making three cuts in front of chest, and two 
cuts, or more if ncessary, at the armhole. Do not cut into 
the haircloth on the bias, but straight between the run of 
the hair, allowing one side to lap over the other as far as 
necessary, and then tack it to the canvas. 

If there is a V in the canvas, then a V should be cut in 
the haircloth; but if the canvas is cut with a shoulder- 
piece, as shown in Diagram ??, do not insert a V in the 
haircloth. Cut the top piece of the haircloth to correspond 
with the top piece of the canvas. Piece it out in the same 
way as you do the canvas. To secure the best results put 
a little strip of linen under the place where the seam will 

60 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



come and, keeping both parts, together, stitch them with 
zigzag stitches. 

Lay the shoulder forward in such a manner that the 
haircloth fits over the canvas. Put an extra piece of canvas 
over the haircloth, but not so wide as to spoil the hollow of 
shoulder. Cover the haircloth with felt or any other pad- 
ding desired. Felt is not always desirable as it makes 
canvas too stiff; wadding is preferable for this purpose. 

The wadding should be laid over in so thin a layer as 
merely to protect the lining from being worn out by fric- 
tion of the haircloth. Cover the wadding with cheese 
cloth on the bias; particularly over chest. Never apply 
cheese cloth cut on the straight, as the straight threads 
would hold back the chest of canvas, as if it were wired, 
and would prevent the shaping of chest. 

If flannel is used for covering the haircloth, it also 
must be cut on the bias. 

All strips that are necessary to cover edges of hair- 
cloth should be applied on the bias, except at crease of 
lapel, where it should be applied on the straight and al- 
lowed to run as far as crease of lapel, so that it may be 
padded together with lapels and thus prevent a break be- 
tween the crease of lapel and haircloth. 

For soft roll, do not carry the haircloth as far as to 
the middle of the canvas, as this would cause a break be- 
tween lapel and haircloth. A piece of haircloth about three 
inches in width and four inches in length is sufficient for 
a soft-roll at the front of armhole, where sleeve is creased, 
to prevent a break. However, the haircloth may run over 
the shoulder if desired. 

61 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



To get the best result on canvas when the top piece is 

cut separate, sew the pieces of canvas together, cut the 
haircloth to correspond in the bias, sew this together and 
manage to have the seam of haircloth close to the seam of 
canvas, lay it forward and see that one piece is not short 
and the other one long, then baste through the center the 
way I described in basting on haircloth. 

SECTION X 

PADDING STITCHES 

The stitches should be J / 2 inch in length. Around the 
armhole they should run in the same direction as the line 
of the armhole, so that in case the armhole is cut out the 
stitches will not be disturbed. Pad shoulder part sepa- 
rately, and hold canvas in such position that shoulders 
will roll, and the canvas underneath will be smooth when 
padded. 

SECTION XI 

BASTING SEAMS FOR TRY J ON 

For try-on, seams may be basted and lapped over and 
basted again on the outside. However, it is a preferable 
and a cleaner method to baste seams with stitches no longer 
than 14 of an inch in length, press them open, and shape 
them in the same way as seams are treated when finishing 
the garment after try-on. (See Section 6.) 

SECTION XII 

PADDING COLLAR 

The stitches may be % of an inch in length, and 
should not be too far apart. The lines of padding should 
run straight with the crease of the collar. On the corners 

62 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



the canvas should go in full enough so as to allow the cor- 
ners of the collar to roll inward. On the collar stand the 
stitches may also run straight with the crease, but if the 
stand of collar is cut exactly as high as it is to remain, the 
stitches may run perpendicularly with the collar stand. 
The collar stand may also be stitched with a machine, and 
this method makes a firm stand. 




Diagram 7 — Padding Stitches. This cut illustrates the correct 
method of putting in padding stitches as described 
in Section X. 



63 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



SECTION XIII 

UNDERPRESSER SECOND OPERATION 

Pressing Canvas and Seams. — Press shoulders for- 
ward on canvas, and shape the canvas according to the 
way it was cut, whether for a chesty or a corpulent figure. 
On the forepart about an inch and one-half down from the 
shoulder-point at the neck, the cloth should be stretched a 



Diagram 8 — Showing the method of putting padding 

stitches in collar running parallel with crease, 

as described in Section XII. 

trifle straight up with the weave of the cloth or the stripe. 
This will swing the shoulder forward without disturbing 
the direction of the stripes. But the designer must esti- 
mate the amount of stretching properly so that the strap 
does not become too long and the armhole too deep. 

SECTION XIV 

BASTING FRONTS ON CANVAS 

Right Forepart. — Baste down the center as far as the 
pockets, and fasten breast and bottom pockets to canvas; 
then shove material a little backward, so that if the goods 
is striped, the stripes will run backward, but shove it only 

64 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



enough so they will straighten out after tape is basted on. 
Put left canvas on right forepart ; notch it at the shoulder 
point, at notch Of lapel, and finally, at the last buttonhole, 
so that the left forepart will be in same position on the 
canvas as the right one. Great attention must be given 
to having the stripes run straight on the canvas no matter 
how full-chested the figure may be. In right forepart, in 
front of pocket, a defect is often created by the pocket- 




Diagram 9 — Showing padding of the collar stand, 
giving different view. 

maker; the pocket causing a break, especially in coats 
where a front fish has been taken out. This must be seen 
to by the canvas baster, who should not baste the forepart 
until such defect has been rectified. 

SECTION XV 

SPECIAL BASTERS FOR TRY-ONS 

One or more special basters must be employed for try- 
ons, according to the size of the business. After the fronts 
are basted on the canvas, these special basters take the 
whole coat, turn in the edges and baste the facings and 
linings. In basting linings, care must be taken to place 
them below the hollow part of the shoulder, turning in the 

65 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Diagram 10 — Showing method of pressing shoulder as described 

in Section XIII. The top of the picture shows the 

fullness which is to be laid forward. 

surplus at the bottom, so that they can be raised again 
after try-on. This method provides for suficient length 
and width over the shoulder. 

SECTION XVI 

BASTING SHOULDERS AND COLLAR FOR TRY-ON 

Most of the fullness of shoulder seams should be near 
the collar. Put in sufficient cloth from the back over the 



66 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



shoulder so that the shoulder seams will fall well forward, 
and give ease over the shoulder bone. Put the hand in 
after the shoulder is basted, and pull it apart. If it draws 
any wrinkles from the side of the forepart on the shoulder, 
it is a sign that more back is required. 

In basting in the collar, begin to put in fullness at the 
back an inch from the shoulder seam and continue about 
an inch toward the forepart. 




Diagram 1 1 — Showing how collar is to be pressed. 

SECTION XVII 

BASTING IN SLEEVES FOR TRY-ON 

Baste in the sleeve first with a long stitch, and note 
whether it hangs parallel with the front edge of the coat. 
The fullness should be divided according to the width of 
the shoulder. A narrow shoulder requires the fullness at 
the top; but in a broad shoulder it should be placed some- 
what lower toward the front notch. 

The under sleeve should be put in full, so that it may 
roll over the back and permit the fullness to drape in 
straight lines. But if the fullness should drape in bias 
lines, it is a sign that the sleeve is not set in correctly. To 

67 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



remedy this defect, turn the armhole and the upper sleeve 
inside out, and put a long basting stitch where the wrin- 
kles run bias; rip out the first basting, and adjust the 
wrinkles to run straight with the fullness evenly divided. 
In the under sleeve near the front seam some fullness 
should be placed to give ease over the muscle of the arm. 
This fullness should be pressed all around the armhole. 



SECTION XVIII 

PRESSING COAT FOR TRY-ON 

Begin at the right forepart, and press first the under- 
arm seam Next, press the side seams taking care not to 
destroy the length that was created for the shoulder-blade. 
Great care must be taken to press the left side exactly like 
the right side. 

Press the right shoulder seam first. Lay it at the 
point of the press-board, and have the shoulders go for- 
ward, keeping stripes straight over the back. In pressing 
the left shoulder, begin at the collar and lay it forward. 
Press the upper part of the sleeve from the front of the 
straight part of the armhole as far as the notch in the 
back. 

Crease the armhole, and then press the crease together 
so hard that the under-sleeve will roll over without show- 
ing any length or wrinkle at the back of the arms. 

Press right forepart first. At the front of the arm 
press it a trifle short and forward to the middle of the 
chest. Press the front all the way down in such a way 
that the stripes shall run straight, and so as not to destroy 
the shape of the waist line. 

68 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



Press the left forepart in the same manner as the 
right, but do not crease the edges at the bottom too hard, 
in case it should afterward be necessary to take out the 
marks of pressing. 

Roll the bottom corners toward the inside. 

Press the collar on the left side first, and handle the 
shoulder so that it will go forward. The middle of the 
collar at the center seam should be kept straight. On 
the sides below the shoulder seam, the collar should be 
kept somewhat hollow in order to have a good line, with- 
out a scoop or a hunch, in front of the collar seam. 

Press the outside of the lapels gently so as not to crease 
the edges too hard and thus make it more difficult to take 
out the creases after try-on. 

SECTIONS XIX, XX 

These sections provide for extras which may be re- 
quired for try-ons, such as a full lining, or a cover basted 
over delicate fabrics like white flannel or silk. 

SECTIONS XXI, XXII 

SLEEVE-MAKING 

If there are no notches in front seam of sleeves, notch 
about 3 inches down from top, also about 3 inches up from 
bottom, and allow about Y% of an inch more of undersleeve 
to go in between the two notches than of top sleeve. Notch 
the sleeve at the back in the same manner, and give the 
top sleeve a fullness of 54 mc ^ between the two notches. 

Sew the front seam of sleeve from the top sleeve, so 
that the fullness of the under sleeve will be equally dis- 

69 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



tributed between the top and bottom notches. In pressing 
the front seam of sleeves, the under sleeve should be laid 
flat on the board the way it was cut, and care should be 
taken not to destroy the hollow shape of the sleeve. Press 
the seam open, and do not go with the iron into the top 
sleeve farther than one and one-half inches. This will 
preserve the hollow of the front of the top sleeve. Press 
the other part of the sleeve smooth, removing the wrinkles 
created by pressing the front seam. 

Mark the vent according to the instructions on ticket, 
and mark the bottom for turn-in. Baste in wiggin at bot- 
tom, allowing at least a half inch to turn in with the cloth, 
in order to provide for lengthening the sleeve without 
piecing out the wiggin. The wiggin must be fastened to 
inside of turn-in with padding stitches. 

An extra piece of lining, cut on the straight, should be 
put in the top sleeve at the vent in order to keep the edge 
of the vent firm and straight. 

If the corner of the vent is to be rounded, the inside 
lining and wiggin should be cut out at the point so that the 
corner will not be too thick. Press vent and bottom flat 
from the inside. 

Baste the back seam and allow a scant quarter of an 
inch from the top sleeve to go in between the two notches. 
Stitch the back seam of sleeve, and stitch the sleeve-lining, 
fulling in a little at the front seam of the under-sleeve ; 
in like manner, when stitching the back seam, full in the 
top sleeve a trifle. In the fulling in at a seam, place the 
long part underneath. By this means the feed of the ma- 
chine will take up the fullness uniformly. 

It is of course understood that we cannot put as much 
fullness in the lining as in the cloth. 

70 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



Press back seam of sleeve as far as the vent. Do not 
cut into the outlet of the under sleeve, but turn it back 
from five to six inches and press it flat. The cutting should 
be avoided in order that the sleeve may be let out at the 
bottom if needed. 

The seams of the lining may be pressed to one side and 
not open. Press so that the top sleeve laps over the under 
sleeve. Baste in the lining leaving a fullness between the 
notches dividing it equally on front and back seam alike. 
Allow enough lining at bottom sleeve to provide for 
lengthening. Invert the sleeve and baste around at the 
top about four inches down deep enough so as not to inter- 
fere when basting in the sleeves. 

In cutting off the sleeve-lining at the top, allow three- 
eighths of an inch, gradually increasing the allowance to 
three-fourths of an inch at the front seam, and also under 
the arm, and decreasing gradually to meet at the top sleeve. 
This length is necessary to avoid shortness when the arm- 
hole is closed and creased. 

The felling of the sleeve-lining at the bottom should be 
done by girls at the time that the coat is felled, and the 
buttonholes should be done by the girls who do this work. 

SECTION XXIII 

RIPPING AND PRESSING AFTER TRY-ON 

In ripping and pressing parts flat after try-on, in the 
case of a coat fully basted and without pockets, it is diffi- 
cult in some materials to remove the creases by merely 
wetting and pressing. In such cases turn the iron on the 
side and cover it with a wet cloth. Place the material so 
that the crease is over the cloth and iron, and let the steam 
come through the cloth until it softens the goods at the 

71 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



crease. Hammer the crease with a brush and stretch the 
goods apart until the crease disappears. Then remove the 
goods from the iron and press on the wrong side until dry. 

SECTION XXIV 

RE-MARKING AFTER TRY-ON 

Re-marking after try-on, on a full baste, is to be done 
by the cutter. If the pockets are in, and the canvas re- 
mains in the fore-part after try on, the edges should be 
pressed smooth and re-marked by the foreman or by the 
man who is assigned to handle the garment after return- 
ing from try-on. The stripes at the front edges between 
the buttonholes should in most cases run straight; if, 
however, the garment is for a very corpulent figure it is 
preferable for the stripes to run a little toward the top 
button, as this tends to disguise the appearance of corpu- 
lency. 

SECTION XXV 

MARKING-STITCHES AFTER TRY-ON 

The instructions for making marking-stitches are the 
same as already given in Section 2. For the sake of con- 
venience they are repeated here. 

Marking stitches for side seams, as well as on edges, 
should be }i of an inch in length, whereas on shoulders 
and all other curves and hollows, stitches are to be y% of 
an inch in length with a loop. It is necessary to use scis- 
sors without a point to split the marking stitches. To 
split stitches lift one side of cloth, opening up no more 
than the necessary length to cut through with scissors, 
thus leaving on either side the necessary length of marking 
thread. 

72 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



This part of the work is generally done by a girl or ? 
boy apprentice who should be cautioned not to cut material. 

SECTION XXVI 

BASTER ON POCKETS 

The stay should not be wider than \y 2 inches, and 
should be of linen. If, however, the garment is of the 
skeleton type, the stay must be of the same material as the 
pocket, and two inches wide, so that it can be turned in and 
felled to the bellows pocket instead of to the forepart. 
Thus the coat will look as if it were fully lined. A 
hanging pocket of silk may be made on the same 
principle. The baster who bastes on flaps and pocket 
facing should also make the welt and breast pocket, and 
baste for machine-stitching. When machine-sewing is 
used the baster should baste the pockets and tack the 
breast-pocket. On second class work the operator sews 
on flaps, breast-pockets, and facing, without basting. He 
also does the stitching without basting. Great care should 
be taken in stitching pockets, especially the right one, as 
the machine is liable to push the cloth below the flap of 
pocket forward, causing a break in front of flap, espe- 
cially where a front fish has been taken out in the fore- 
part. To avoid this break, have the pocket-stay basted a 
trifle shorter in the front part of right pocket, while on 
the left pocket the stay should be kept a trifle shorter in 
the back part of pocket. 

SECTION XXVII 

MACHINIST THIRD OPERATION 

The full directions for stitching pockets have been 
given in Section VIII, and they apply in every particular 
to this Section. The work called for in this Section is only 
performed when garments are fully basted for try-ons 

73 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



without pockets. For convenience we repeat Section VIII 
as follows: 

Before stitching around pockets, particularly on the 
right forepart, pull the part of the pocket under the flap 
toward the back. The upper part of the pocket with flap 
must be pulled forward, as this also helps to prevent a 
break in front of flap, as explained in Section VII. This 
defect often occurs at the back of the left side pocket, 
great care must be taken to have the pockets adjusted so 
that the stripes run straight before sewing the pockets 
together. 

SECTION XXVIII 

MAKING VENTS IN BACK 

If there are two vents, the outlet of side seams on the 
foreparts should not be cut in, but seams should be pressed 
open down to the opening of the vent; then, instead of 
cutting into the cloth, lap outlet over in a bias direction so 
as not to destroy the seam where it has been pressed open. 

Where there is a center vent only, the cloth may be cut 
4into on the right side, and the stay-tape should be con- 
tinued from 3 to 4 inches above the opening of the vent ; 
otherwise the vent would spread open. The stay-tape 
should also be applied to side vents, but should be con- 
tinued 2 inches instead of 4 above opening of the same. 

SECTION XXIX 

THE UNDERPRESSER 

Before shaping it must be observed whether the figure 
is a corpulent, stout, or a high chest. The description on 
the ticket must describe the kind of figure so that the un- 
derpresser can work according to instruction. 

74 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



SECTION XXX 

BASTING FRONTS ON CANVAS AFTER TRY-ON 

Take right forepart first, baste down the centre as far 
as the pockets and fasten breast and bottom pockets to 
canvas, then shove the material a little backward so that 
if the cloth is striped, the stripes will run backward, but 
only enough so that they will straighten out after the tape 
is basted on. Put left canvas on right forepart; notch it 
at shoulder point, at notch of lapel, and at the last button- 
hole, so that the left forepart is in same position on canvas 
as the right. Great attention must be given to having the 
stripes run straight on the canvas no matter how full- 
chested the figure may be. In right forepart, in front of 
pocket, a defect is created in most cases by the pocket- 
maker; the pocket causing a break, especially in coats 
where a front fish has been taken out. This must be seen 
to by the canvas baster. He should not baste the forepart 
until the defect is rectified. 

The work described in this Section will not be neces- 
sary unless the coat is made without pockets before try-on. 

SECTION XXXI 

PADDING LAPELS 

In padding lapels, the stitches should not be more than 
% of an inch in length, and the cloth should be caught 
with every stitch; but stitches should not go all the way 
through and show on the right side of the cloth, nor should 
they be pulled too tight. 



75 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



SECTION XXXII 

UNDERPRESSER FOURTH OPERATION 

Press lapels. Press chest into shape keeping the stripes 
straight. In every operation care must be taken to have 
shoulders pressed forward and not to stretch the gorge. 

SECTION XXXIII 

SHAPING COAT 

Duties of Shaper. — The shaper must have a thor- 
ough knowledge of tailoring, and also have good taste. It 
is his business to rectify the mistakes of the canvas-baster. 

Rules for Shaping. — To shape coat apply the lapel 
shaper, and if necessary, the forepart pattern. Mark 
crease of lapel; cut around canvas, crease lapels before 
basting on the tape to make sure that edges of lapels are 
not too short. Creases of lapels should be allowed to 
remain during the progress of work on the garment 
whether a stationary front or a soft roll. On soft roll the 
creases must be removed by presser when garment is fin- 
ished. If these instructions are followed the lapel will not 
pull, but fall into the place where it should go. 

The reason for creasing a soft-roll and afterward re- 
moving it is to prevent one lapel rolling down farther than 
the other. By creasing both lapels equally the canvas takes 
a partial break that will not come out, and the lapels will 
always fall as far as that break and no farther. The 
crease in the cloth, however, will come out in the pressing. 

In fitting the linings for very fine work, the instruc- 
tions given in Section I should be followed, "not to fit 
them flat on the table," etc., and the fitting should be done 

76 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



by the shaper, after he receives the garment from the 
underpresser for shaping lapels. 

He should prepare facings, mark the inside breast 
pocket, and hand it to the foreman or operator directly, 
so that the pockets may be put in by the time the tape- 
baster and felling-hands have completed their work. In 
garments where the facing is bound, it should not be 
stitched to the lining. The main reason for binding the 
facing is that it may be opened up whenever required, for 
the purpose of making some little alteration, such as re- 
ducing surplus in haircloth or canvas, or adding a piece 
of padding or to secure greater fullness in the lining, for 
which a surplus has been left under the facing. 

In moderate-priced work, the fitter fits the linings at 
the outset, and these precautions may be omitted and the 
lining fitted flat of the table. 

All this work of fitting linings may be done by the 
regular fitter, if patterns have been prepared for him from 
linings fitted out according to the instructions which have 
been given above for the shaper. Patterns of this sort can 
be cut from garments made up in any style, and graded in 
sizes. 

Position of Breast Pocket. — One can fit lining in bet- 
ter when the inside breast pocket is made to go as far as 
the facing. If the pocket must go into the facing, baste 
facing over that part so that breast-pocket can be put in. 
Wherever forepart is broad enough, arrange to have 
breast pocket go as far as the facing only. 



77 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



SECTION XXXIV 

MACHINIST FOURTH OPERATION 

If facing is bound, put in the breast pocket and do 
not stitch facing on to lining. If the facing is not bound, 
seam facing on to the lining, taking care to have sufficient 
length over chest. Put in breast pocket. 

SECTION XXXV 

BASTING ON TAPE 

Baste tape first at crease of lapel, as far down as edge ; 
at the neck let the tape extend an inch longer above seams, 
so that it may be fastened to the collar when collar is sewed 
in. For the edges, start tape about one inch above crease 
of lapel. Keep tape loose at the points and over round of 
lapels, so that the edges of lapels do not get too short. 

Where lapel turns over (at the first buttonhole) the 
tape should be held loose. From first buttonhole to the 
last it should be held even, and below the last buttonhole, 
toward the bottom, it should be held tight enough to 
straighten the stripes which have been basted backward 
for that purpose. At the round of corner, hold tape some- 
what loose, and from the point where the round of the 
corner ends, as far as the line where the pocket starts, it 
should be kept a trifle tight, so that the corners will roll 
toward the inside; toward the back keep the tape even. 

SECTION XXXVI 

FELLING TAPE 

Do not let the needle go through the cloth, the stitches 
must be taken in the cloth, and should not be pulled so 
tight that they make holes in the edges when finished. 

78 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



SECTION XXXVII 

UNDERPRESSER FIFTH OPERATION 

In pressing tape, begin at the buttonhole and work 
down. Put lapel on press block, and press in such a way 
that the tape does not get short on edges with the pressing. 
If an oval effect at crease of lapel is desired, it can be 
obtained by holding the tape tight at edge of lapel and 
pressing short. On the other hand, if a straight or some- 
what hollow effect is desired, the tape must be held loose 
on the edges, and the presser must be careful not to press 
tape short to secure an oval or hollow effect. It often 
happens that in cases where the customer desires to have 
the crease either straight or somewhat hollow, this result 
is not secured for the reason that the tape is basted short 
at the edges by the tape-baster, pressed short by the 




Diagram 12 — Pressing tape on half-moon block as 
described in Section XXXV. 



79 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



presser, and as a consequence, the facing is basted on short 
by the facing-baster. 



SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HOLLOW 
LAPELS 

If an extremely hollow effect is desired, a fish is to be 
taken out of the canvas, its width will depend upon the 
degree of hollow. The curve of the hollow must extend 
from the collar seam to the buttonhole. The cloth also 
must be treated to produce a hollow effect. The following 
method has been found to give satisfactory results : 

Assuming that the crease of the lapel is straight, let us 
mark, midway between the gorge and the first button, the 
amount of hollow wanted. Then draw a curved line along 




Diagram 13 — Showing how the lapel is placed for creasing. 



80 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 




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81 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




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82 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



the crease of the lapel indicating the final hollow line of 
the crease. The amount of cloth shown between the crease 
and the curved line must be cut off from the edge of the 
lapel. 

The forepart must now be put on a half-moon pressing 
block, with the lapel arranged in the same shape that it 
had before it was cut. Then put the iron on it, and stretch 
the edge of the lapel until it assumes the rounded form 
desired, and until the crease takes on the required hollow. 
This process of working the cloth will give not only the 
"hollow effect" but it will also give the required length 
over the chest. 

Some designers take out a narrow V under the collar 
near the crease of the lapel, in order to get a greater chest 
effect. If it is desired to secure the hollow effect which 
we have described, this V must not be taken out. Any 
advantage secured by taking out a V will be gained by the 
method of pressing short and shaping that we have 
described. 



SECTION XXXVIII 

FACING-BASTER 

The f acing-baster must see that the stripes on the lapels 
are alike on both sides. If the lapel is rounded the facing 
should be pressed in the same shape. 

First, baste the facing on the lapel, making it a trifle 
longer where the buttonhole starts, so that when the lapel 
is turned back, there will be no shortness ; see also that the 
facing has the proper length over the chest. From the 
first buttonhole down to the round part of the bottom of 

83 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



the forepart, the facing should be of the same length as 
the forepart, and it should be kept tight where the round 
part ends, so that the corners will roll inward. See that 
the cloth is basted in with sufficient fullness from the cor- 
ner of the lapel in such a way that it will not be short 
lengthwise, or tight crosswise, so that when the garment is 
finished, the lapel will have a tendency to roll in ; whereas, 
if the facing is put on flat, the lapel will turn toward the 
outside after the garment is finished, especially on lapels 
with the points up. 

Before the ffacing-baster passes the garment to the 
machinist, the facing must be pressed so that the operator 
will have no difficulty in seaming it properly without spoil- 
ing stripes. 



SECTION XXXIX 

MACHINIST FIFTH OPERATION 

Sewing Around Edges of Coat. — Sew 1-16 of an inch 
away from tape, so that the stitches taken in felling the 
tape will not be caught in with the machine stitch; for if 
the machine needle goes through the felling, it pulls the 
felling stitch tight and makes holes in the edges, giving 
them an uneven saw-like appearance. 

On heavy material the stitching should be about % of 
an inch from the tape, as more space is required for turn- 
ing over the edge and avoiding holes. Some tailors sew 
around the edges on the tape to avoid felling the tape sep- 
arately, and also to avoid getting saw-like edges. But this 
method causes a hard wiry edge, and after the garment is 
worn for a time the cloth will begin to pucker along the 
edges. The reason for this is that the tape need to go in 

84 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



considerably shorter if it is to be sewed in with a machine, 
instead of being felled by hand. The reason for the wiry 
edge is because seyeral kinds of unlike materials are sewed 
together in the edge, whereas by the propr method only 
the facing and forepart are sewed together. 



SECTION XL 

UNDERPRESSER SIXTH OPERATION 

Press fullness away from facing and press edges open 
on the edge press-board. Care must be taken not to spoil 
the corners of lapels, particularly lapels with points up. 
The corners can not be pressed open with the board, so 
place them flat on the board, and with your fingers get the 
edges open around the corners and press them around so 
that the surplus of the material is pressed short as much 
as necessary in order to avoid thickening in the corners. 
In some thin materials the edges may be pressed flat with- 
out opening seams. 



SECTION XLI 

EDGE BASTER 

First, cut around the edges. On the lapels leave y& of 
an inch more on the side of the facing. From buttonhole 
down, leave y% of an inch more on the side of the forepart. 
After basting the first two rows of stitching, turn the lapel 
at crease to make sure that there is ample facing; then put 
the forepart on the table with the lapel in its crease ; raise 
the edge of forepart a trifle; inside of facing, put in a 
third basting in such a way that the facing will not be too 
full in width. This precaution prevents the forepart from 
rolling to the outside. 

85 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



Never baste the facing with lapels opened up; for if 
this is done the facing - will be too tight across lapels after 
putting collar in and cause the lapels to turn toward the 
outside instead of toward the inside. 




Diagram 16 — Shows forepart with edge creased and placed on 
table, also the manner of basting as described in Section XLI. 



86 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIE 



SECTION XLII 

BASTING LINING 

Place lining on the underarm seam of the cloth; see 
that the lining does not form any bias wrinkles and that it 
has sufficient length over chest. Turn lining over shoulder 
toward armhole in such a way as to have sufficient length 
in front of arm over shoulder bone. Fasten lining to can- 




Diagram 17 — Showing the method of placing lining for basting 
without bias wrinkles as described in Section XLII. 



87 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



vas; baste facing on top, stitches to be about 1/16 of an 
inch away from binding of facing, so that the felling can 
be done inside of machine stitching ; if it is done on the out- 
side, the facing will not lie flat to the body of coat. It is 
better to stitch through on the outside of facing near 
binding, catching through both lining and canvas. The 
person who does this must have instructions not to catch 
stitches through forepart. Do not have lining under 
facing more than from ^ to % of an inch wide. Where 
there is no binding on the facing, and it is seamed, lining 
should be pressed over and stitched by machine if desired, 
so that it can be fastend to the canvas. 



SECTION XLIII 

BASTING SHOULDER SEAMS 

Put in sufficient cloth from the back over the shoulder, 
so that the shoulder-seam will fall well forward, and give 
ease over the shoulder-bone. Put hand in after the shoul- 
der is basted and pull it apart. If it draws any wrinkles 
from the side of the forepart on the shoulder, it is a sign 
that more back is required. 

SECTION XLIV 

SEAMING SHOULDER 

In seaming shoulder it is better to sew seams by hand. 
On second class work, seaming may be done by machine. 
In this case, however, care must be taken that the tension 
of the machine is properly adjusted, as otherwise the least 
strain would rip the shoulder. 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



SECTION XLV 

UNDERPRESSER SEVENTH OPERATION 

In pressing shoulder seams, use the narrow part of the 
press-board. The hollow of the shoulder should not be 
destroyed with the iron. Lay shoulder forward when 
pressing seams. 

Care must be taken to have the stripes run straight 
over the back. The run of the seam should be oval, point- 
ing forward. This will produce the desired shortening 
back of the arm, as well as ease over the shoulder-bone in 
front of arm. 

SECTION XLVI 

COLLAR BASTER 

In basting in the collar, begin to put in fullness at the 
back a half inch from the shoulder seam and continue 
about an inch and a half toward the forepart, and finish 
it on inside. Fell the front corners. At crease of lapel, 
fasten tape to collar. Be careful not to have a hunch or 
scoop at the crease of collar and lapel at the front seam 
of collar. 

SECTION XLVII 

WORKING IN THE ARMHOLE 

Draw in the armhole with a double thread. Make a 
few stitches forward about 3/16 of an inch in length. Pull 
the stitches a little tight, and then make one backstitch in 
order to keep the fullness in the proper place. Continue 
this manner of stitching as far as the underarm seam. 
Then stitch upward with a chain stitch to the point where 
the stitching was begun. 

89 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



This method will keep the fullness in the proper place 
and prevent the armhole from stretching. Care should 
be taken to have all this stitching near the place of the 
seam. If it is too close to the edge of the armhole, it 
creates a shortness on the inside of the armhole and not 
where it is wanted at the seam. It also prevents the proper 
creasing of the armhole. 

In front, over the straight part of armhole and notch, 
draw in a trifle — just enough to prevent stretching. In- 
stead of the above method of stretching, a tape may be 
basted in at the back of the armhole. 



SECTION XLVIII 

UNDERPRESSER EIGHTH OPERATION 

Press armhole over back part where it is worked in, 
placing edge of press board in such a position as to form 
the shoulder blade. Care must be taken not to pull the 
shoulder seam down in the pressing. Lay shoulder over 
the end of press board and press shoulder forward. Next 
place front part of armhole in such a position over press 
board as to form the chest, and press flat under the arm 
between chest and shoulder-blade ; but in the middle of the 
underarm seam, a little distance down from the armhole, 
the cloth should be pressed a little short. This will create 
a clean appearance under the arm, and give a good line to 
the back of arm and chest. 



SECTION XLIX 

BASTING IN SLEEVES 

Baste in the sleeves first with a long stitch, and note 
whether they hang parallel with the front edge of the coat. 

90 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



The fullness should be divided according to the width of 
the shoulder. A narrow shoulder requires the fullness at 
the top; but in a broad shoulder it should be placed some- 
what lower, toward the front notch. 

The under sleeve should be put in full so that it may 
roll over the, back and permit the fullness to drape in 
straight lines. But if the fullness should drape in bias 
lines, it is a sign that the sleeve is not set in correctly. To 
remedy this defect, turn the armhole and the upper sleeve 
inside out, and put a long basting stitch where the wrinkles 
run bias ; rip out the first basting, and adjust the wrinkles 
to run straight with the fullness evenly divided. In the 
under sleeve near the front seam some fullness should be 
placed to give ease over the muscle of the arm. This 
fullness should be pressed all around the armhole before 
seaming the sleeves. 



SECTION L 

SEWING IN SLEEVES BY HAND 

Backstitch with short stitches close to the chainstitch- 
ing where the armhole was drawn in, but care must be 
taken that the white thread used in drawing in the armhole 
shall not show through. The seam should not be broader 
than a quarter of an inch. 

On second-class work the sleeves may be sewed in on 
the machine. In very cheap work, if there is no outlet 
around the armholes, the operator sews sleeves in without 
basting. He should sew from the side of armholes which 
will enable him to push fullness in the right place. There 
is a great saving of time and money in this last mentioned 
operation. 



91 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



SECTION LI 

UNDERPRESSER NINTH OPERATION 

Press fullness of sleeves all around the armhole. Press 
open at top, from straight part of front armhole to shoul- 
der-seam, then place upper sleeve where it was pressed 
open, over narrow point of press-board and press outside 
of sleeves at the top ; underpresser must see that seam has 




Diagram 18 — Illustrating- manner of pressing- 
shoulder as described in Section LI. 



92 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 




Diagram 19 — This illustrates how the stripes should run 

straight in the back, and how the collar is 

prepared for shaping. 

93 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



the right run. Lay shoulder on press-board in such a 
position that when pressing the shoulder seam, the shoul- 
der shall go forward. The stripes in the material at the 
upper part of the back should run straight. Stripes 
material serves as a guide to the presser showing him how 
carefully he must handle the back of arm in order not to 
make the stripes crooked or stretch out the armhole. 
Press collar for shaping. 



SECTION LII 

SHAPING THE COLLAR 

The first duty of the collar-shaper is to see that the line 
of the collar at the crease is according to the pattern. He 
should have an iron at hand to correct any deviation from 
the pattern, and to make the collar conform to any instruc- 
tions on the ticket. In the absence of a pattern, the shaper 
should make the collar conform to the size of the coat. It 
must also harmonize with the size of the lapel. The seam 
joining the collar and the lapel must always be straight. 
The inside seam of the collar should be rounded, and not 
have any corners. If it does not run in this way it is diffi- 
cult to raise the collar properly. 

SECTION LIII 

BASTING ON THE TOP COLLAR 

In basting on the top collar care should be taken in the 
case of either stripes or checks, to have them alike on both 
sides of the collar. In striped material fold the collar in 
the center at a stripe. Should the material run in on one 
side and out on the other, it shows that the top collar has 
been cut somewhat on the bias, and it must be cut straight 
before stretching the top collar- for basting. Stripes 

94 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



should always match in the back. In the front it is not 
necessary to match the stripes of the collar to the facing; 
for by trying to match them in front the top collar is often 
spoiled. 

SECTION LIV 

FELLING UNDER COLLAR 

In felling the under collar around the gorge, the 
stitches should go through and catch the canvas. Should 
the material be too heavy for this, it will be necessary to 
fasten the cloth separately to the canvas before felling on 
the under collar. 

In felling the outside edge of the collar, the ordinary 
felling stitch is apt to make the edge of the collar uneven, 
giving it a saw-like appearance, and does not give a neatly 
rounded effect to the corners. To secure the best finish 
the stitches should be taken outward from the under collar 
to the top collar, extending the top collar a sixteenth of an 
inch beyond the under collar. The stitches must not be 
drawn too tight lest they make the edge uneven. 



SECTION LV 

BASTING ARMHOLES 

Be careful to have the run of shoulder seams rounded 
and forward to preserve the original line of the shoulder. 
Be careful not to have the stripes crooked. There should 
not be a surplus of material between the crease of the lapel 
and the armhole seam. 

From under the top collar the shoulder should spring 
forward toward the front; this gives it a smart effect, as 
well as ease over the shoulder bone. Some tailors leave 

95 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



the upper part of the top sleeve open; this is not advisable, 
as it makes the front seam of arm run straight and pulls 
the shoulder seam crooked. Formerly when very broad 
shoulders hung over the shoulder-bone, and the sleeve 
head was cut short, thus creating wrinkles ; to avoid these 
wrinkles the seam was usually left open ; but when narrow 
shoulders are in style, it is better to sew armhole all 
around, thus keeping it as it was originally intended. This 
will prevent getting the shoulder out of place, which would 
shorten the back over shoulder blades and cause an undue 
length at back of arm. 



SECTION LVI 

MACHINIST SIXTH OPERATION 

Stitch edges of the coat. 

At bottom of coat, where facing is bound, the stitching 
of the edges should not catch the binding at the facing, 
for if this is done it makes the bottom uneven and makes 
the facing often too short. 

In heavy material care must be taken to have the stitch- 
ing of the collar of the same width as the edges, because 
the collar being usually thinner than the edges, there is 
danger of making the stitching of the collar narrower than 
the edges. 

SECTION LVII 

CUTTING BUTTON HOLES 

On garments having silk facing, as overcoats, dress- 
coats, and dinner coats, have a piece of wax at hand; 
warm a knife hot enough to have the wax adhere to it and 
run the knife through the button hole cut on side of the 
silk, so that the silk takes on a little of the wax on each 

96 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



side of the buttonhole cut; this will prevent the silk from 
raveling and will make a clean buttonhole when finished. 



SECTION LVIII 

BUTTONHOLE-MAKER 

Buttpnholes laid in with a thread can always be fast- 
ened better at the ends, but it takes more time to make 
them. 

In laying in a gimp use No. 1. Put the needle through 
the gimp with the first stitch in order to fasten it; then 
pull thread forward when making loops, to make them 
slanting. When the eyelet of the buttonhole is reached, 
draw in that part as much as goods was stretched in the 
making. Lay on gimp around curve of eyelet taking care 
not to shrink the latter or hold it in, but to hold gimp even 
with curve of eyelet. Finish opposite side in like manner, 
and when the end is reached hold eyelet . of buttonhole 
tight with thumb and forefinger, and draw in this side as 
much as the goods was stretched in the making, so that 
both sides will be exactly alike in length, and the round or 
eyelet not twisted to one side. Then put the needle through 
first loop of first side of buttonhole and pull the two parts 
together. Put needle with gimp through, in a slanting 
direction, so that there will be about y% of an inch of gimp 
between facing and outside part ; fasten end of buttonhole 
through the gimp and make a bar-tack as wide as the 
width of buttonhole. 

In basting the buttonhole use white thread; put the 
needle in as far as loop on first side, and on the other side 
put in needle at the loop so that the basting stitches will 
not go through the loops as it is apt to split them. When 
eyelet of buttonhole is reached, put stitches all the way 

97 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



through a few times, and go back with the same stitches 
to the other end of buttonhole, but do not catch the loops 
because, as mentioned above, it might split them. If direc- 
tions are carefully followed, it gives buttonholes a cord- 
like effect. 

Do not bite buttonhole together with the teeth but use 
a pair of pliers instead. 

On silk facings use gimp No. 1 doubled. On lapel, 
where there is no eyelet in the buttonhole, start at first 
side; put needle through the double gimp and fasten it 
with the first stitch. Pull thread over gimp in a straight 
direction, bringing loop down at the side of the gimp. 
When the end is reached draw in that side as much as it 
was stretched in the making, then turn gimp around and 
make stitches enough to cover front part of gimp without 
loops; start the loop even with the first side, and when 
the end is reached, hold the front end with thumb and 
forefinger and draw in this side also as much as goods was 
stretched in the making. Fasten the end, putting needle 
through in a slanting direction so that there will be about 
Y% of an inch of gimp between facing and goods. Take 
care to have both sides alike and not to pull the gimp, 
which would cause the gimp at the front end to slip down 
and the stitches to remain blank and have the appearance 
of a chicken leg. 

In Vicuna or any other soft material, where stitches 
sink into goods and loops do not show, turn the twist 
around the needle twice, and do not pull stitches at loops 
too tight. Pull thread forward; the stitches should be 
about 1-16 of an inch apart. This gives a slanting effect 
to the loop, and makes a very clean and soft buttonhole. 



98 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



SECTION LIX 

FELLING COAT 

Where the facing is bound, and not stitched to the lin- 
ing, it is preferable to sew on outside facing close to the 
binding, and catch through the lining and canvas ; but care 
should be taken not to let the stitches go through the fore- 
part. The part of the sleeve lining under the arm-pits, 
where it is most likely to rip, should be stitched as well 
as felled, with a back stitch, from the front notch of sleeve 
to the notch at the back. 

The worker on this Section should follow the instruc- 
tions given on "Felling Under Collar" in Section LIV. 
When business is done on a large scale, it is advisable to 
have a separate hand to fell the collar. In a small shop 
the hand fells both coat and collar. 



SECTION LX 

PULLING OUT BASTINGS 

On fine materials one is apt to tear the goods in pull- 
ing bastings. To avoid this, cut stitches through on top 
at short intervals. In this way there will be no danger of 
tearing the material. 

SECTION LXI 

PRESSING EDGES AND BUTTONHOLES 

Care should be taken to press facing so that the edges 
should turn toward the inside, and the presser should not 
go in too far with the iron as it might spoil a part of the 
chest effect. He may press the crease of the collar in the 
case of heavy materials. 

99 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



SECTION LXII 

PRESSING OFF COAT 

Begin at the right forepart. First press the underarm 
seam. To press pockets, lay a piece of card board under 
the flap, lift it, press underpart of pocket straight, close to 
the flap. Press down to the bottom. Press bottom as far 
as the pocket on the other side. Press side seams, taking 
care not to destroy the length that was created for the 
shoulder-blade. Care must be taken to have the left side 
exactly the same as the right. Press right shoulder seam 
first; lay it at point of press-board and have shoulders go 
forward (and keep stripes straight over the back). 

At left shoulder, begin at the collar, and lay it for- 
ward. Press upper part of sleeve from the front of 
straight part of armhole as far as to the back of notch of 
under-sleeve. Crease the armhole at the stitches of the 
seaming-in of sleeve so that the armhole seam is pressed 
toward the inside. This gives more room in the armhole 
and the sleeve will hang better. 

Many pressers nowadays find it easier to press the 
seam up straight by creasing the armhole, but this makes 
the armhole smaller, pulls the sleeve-lining over, and gives 
it the effect of being too short. In the back, especially, the 
crease should be pressed together so hard that the under 
sleeve will roll over without showing any length or 
wrinkle at the back of the arm. 

If too high a gloss should be raised in the pressing, it 
can be taken out with a slightly dampened press-cloth 
without touching the crease. Next put coat over press- 
board, fit point of pressboard to the armhole and sleeve; 
put in a sleeve pad and press the upper part of top sleeve. 

100 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 




Diagram 20 — Showing- how to place coat on pressboard. 




Diagram 21 — Showing how to place the press-cloth and 
process of pressing. 



101 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



Press right forepart first. At front of arm press a trifle 
short and forward to the middle of chest. Press fronts 
all the way down in such a way that the stripes run 
straight and so as not to destroy the shaping of the waist 
line. 

Roll bottom corners toward inside; press left forepart 
in the same manner, taking care to straighten buttonholes 
and edges. 

In pressing collar, press the left side first. Handle 
shoulder so that it should go forward. In the middle of 
collar, especially at center seam, it should be kept straight ; 
and on the sides below the shoulder seam and seam of 
collar it should be kept somewhat hollow so as to have a 
good line, without a scoop or a hunch at front of collar 
seam. 

If it is a stationary front, put lapels on press board and 
press on outside of lapel, but so gently as not to raise a 
gloss or spoil the crease. If it is a soft roll, put lapel on 
press-board and press out crease of lapel from the side of 
the forepart so that no gloss will be raised on outside. At 
the corners of collar and lapel press gently, just enough 
as to have lapel and collar roll toward the inside. Should 
there be any wrinkles in the lining caused by the pressing, 
take them out with the point of the iron, but in such a way 
as not to spoil the shape of the coat. Wrinkles on silk 
lining can be taken out with a wet sponge and straightened 
out with the fingers, and not with the iron, as this would 
raise a gloss. The garment should be hung up in such a 
manner that forepart and lapel roll toward the inside. 



102 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



PRESSING OFF BODY COATS 

Fit the broad end of pressboard into back of skirt, in 
such a way as not to destroy the shape which was tailored 
to fit over hips; then press fronts and skirts. Great care 
must be taken not to destroy the shape at the waist-line. 

'If the cloth is too soft the waist-line is apt to get 
stretched in the pressing. Therefore it is advisable to 
baste a strip of light weight silk lining, about half an inch 
in width, two inches above the waist seam, as this prevents 
the stretching out of waist line or the straightening out of 
any parts that were intended to be hollow. Sleeves and 
collar to be pressed as mentioned above. Pleats of back 
of skirt are to be creased as the last operation on a flat- 
board. To press dress coats it is necessary to have a spe- 
cial cushion for the fronts and a board for the skirts. 
Dress coats cannot be pressed well with the same tools as 
sack coats. In pressing silk facings, a single layer of 
Vicuna should be put on the press board. If cloth is too 
thick or is padded too soft the marks of the stitches of 
the padding of lapels will show through on the silk facing ; 
whereas pressing the facing on a hard surface covered 
with a single layer of cloth with a layer of silk over that, 
the stitches will not show through. 

Care must be taken not to press too hard as it might 
raise a gloss. For pressing velvet collars there is a device 
over which collar may be placed velvet side down, and 
pressed with a slightly damp cloth under collar. Some 
materials which contain dampness in themselves may be 
pressed with a dry cloth. In pressing light-colored ma- 
terial, the dry press cloth should be changed as soon as it 
turns brown; because if light colored goods are pressed 
with a scorched press cloth, it gives the material the ap- 
pearance of being scorched. 

103 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



SECTION LXIII 

EXAMINER FIRST OPERATION 

After the pressing, an examiner is supposed to mark 
defects in pressing, and rectify linings if they are too long 
or too short, as these defects often show up after pressing, 
and mark buttons; after this he hands over the garment 
to button sewer. 

SECTION LXIV 

BUTTON SEWER 

In sewing on buttons, the stitches should run in the 
same direction as the button hole. Pass the thread two or 
three times up and down, through the holes of the button, 
leaving as much length of thread between goods and 
button-hole as the thickness of edges; next pull button up 
to the limit of thread left underneath for the forming of 
the neck, and turn thread around neck of button as many 
times as is necessary to make it strong, but never let neck 
be thicker than eyelet of buttonhole. This done, put needle 
through facing; in cutting off thread leave an end of it, 
say about half an inch, then gently raise facing from 
canvas so as to allow thread to go inside. 

Should there be more than one button, only the bottom 
button should be caught through the facing a trifle, just 
enough to keep facing in place at edges. 



SECTION LXV 

REPRESSER 

Represser must rectify defects marked by examiner. 

104 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



SECTION LXVI 

EXAMINER SECOND OPERATION 

The examiner is supposed to test every pocket to make 
sure that nothing has been left open. He must test hanger 
and linings, particularly sleeve linings at arm-pits. At 
the bottom, where linings have pleats he must pull pleats 
apart to make sure that lining has not been caught through 
and thus iQse the benefit of the pleats ; then he must pass 
coat over to presser in order that he may put the finishing 
touches to it. After which the examiner must O. K. the 
ticket and garment will then be ready for shipping. 

An all-around tailor is needed to help in the different 
sections. He must be an artist ; his duty will be to sew on 
braid or cord, baste on silk facing, or any other work re- 
quiring an artist tailor. 

SECTION LXVII 

BASTING ON SILK FACING 

The silk facing baster must see that edges and corners 
of lapels are properly prepared. The garment should be 
put on press-board or a cushion. Baste facing on lapels 
first; turn facing so that there will be sufficient length in 
the inside over the chest ; turn lapel around, and where the 
buttonhole is to go, allow facing to go in a trifle longer so 
that it will give sufficient length all the way down. On 
dress coats especially, keep facing tight at the bottom, so 
that the fronts will roll to the inside. The point of the 
lapel should be finished off by the facing-baster, who 
should be very careful to hold stitches a trifle loose at the 
corner where the notch ends, and where collar and lapel 
are tacked, as the least tightness of stitches at this corner 
will make a draw in the facing across the lapel, and thus 

105 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Diagram 22 — Showing how a dress coat is 
pressed before putting on silk facing. 



give it the appearance of having a thread pulled out of the 
facing. It will also create a defect in the facing at the 
buttonhole, if stitches are pulled too tight at the bar-tack 
of the buttonhole. 



106 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



SECTION LXVIII 

SILK COLLAR 

If a silk collar is cut in one piece on the bias, without 
a center seam, the collar shades on one side and rolls up in 
the back. No matter how wide the collar may be put on, 
it will always have the above mentioned tendency. There- 
fore, a collar with a center seam is preferable It should 
be cut on the bias, and the weave or thread in the ends 
should run downward in the same direction as the weave 
or thread in the facing. 

Baste the collar; the facing of the front seam should 
be felled with a loose stitch, to keep the seam in place. Use 
a No. 12 needle and 3-0 sewing silk, then start to close 
seams. Put needle in on facing side and catch the surface 
of the silk ; then put thumb over the stitch and pull thread 
gently; the next stitch should be on the collar side inside 
of seam ; hold thumb over stitch and pull thread up gently ; 
and so on, making one stitch exactly opposite the other, 
until the end of seam is reached. 



SECTION LXIX 

FELLING SILK FACING 

In felling silk facing the lapel must be felled on the 
cloth side. Keep moving facing down with the finger in 
order to have it smooth. Stitches must not be caught 
through on the edge and not be pulled tight. Also care 
should be taken at the point where the first buttonhole is 
to be, just at turning of lapel, not to disturb the length of 
facing. From this buttonhole down, the felling stitches 
should be on facing side, and the fullness kept in place ; do 
not allow the silk facing to slip. 



107 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



SECTION LXX 

BASTING ON FLAT BRAID 

In preparing the edges, the machine stitching should 
be the distance of about the width of the braid from the 
edges, so that in basting on the braid, its first line should 
cover the machine stitching. On lapels the cloth must be 
cut away from the forepart side of edge. From the but- 
tonhole down, the cloth should be cut from the side of the 
facing. 

The oval side of the braid is the right side; however, 
after the shrinking of the braid the right side is easily dis- 
tinguished from the left. 

In basting braid on edges, care must be taken that 
slanting thread on the first line of the braid should run in 
such a way that the felling stitches will go in and be hid- 
den in first line of braid. The side of the braid with the 
heavier edge is the wrong side, and should be put to the 
edge, with the heavy line to the inside, so that the other 
side of the braid may be put close to the heavy line of the 
outside. If the lapels are pointy, in order to have clean 
points, they should be sewed by machine, cut open, and 
pressed. Cut cloth out at points, but do not cut the tape; 
cut only enough of the cloth for seam and braid to go be- 
tween and baste on braid as described above. 

To get flat corners with galloon braid stitch the edges 
by machine as wide as braid should be when finished; this 
rule applies to all braids half-and-half. Sew on braid by 
hand with a back stitch close to the first line of edge, espe- 
cially where the dull side of the galloon is used for the out- 
side. On the under-side it should be felled so as to cover the 
machine stitches. Narrow braid must be felled close to 
the machine stitching. On half-and-half narrow braids it 

108 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



is advisable to first fell the braid on, and then to stitch by 
machine close to the felling, so that when braid is turned 
to be felled on the other side it shall cover the machine 
stitches. In this way the braid will be exactly half-and- 
half. 

SECTION LXXI 

FELLING BRAID 

To get good results in felling braid, take a piece of 
braid, pull out threads, wax and press them and use these 
threads for felling. On flat braid, stitch on with a back 
stitch in the second line. Stitches are to go in between 
weave of braid and not to be pulled so tight as to show 
holes on the edge. 



SECTION LXXII 

CORDING EDGES 

The cord must be kept straight, for the least little twist 
will show, and care must also be taken to see that the end 
of cord has the slant of the twist, running from left to 
right, so that the stitch may go between. Around corners 
of lapels hold the cord a trifle loose, as in most cases it 
shrinks and spoils the round of lapel. 



SECTION LXXIII 

PIPING EDGES 

Piping edges with velvet or cloth can be done in many 
different ways. One way is to sew on piping, baste it over 
with a back stitch, fasten it to the canvas and stitch close 
to piping by machine. Put the facing on and fell it close 
to the machine stitch. However, the practical way is to 

109 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



baste a cord into the piping and sew on edges close to the 
cord; then turn piping around and baste it with a back 
stitch and fasten it to the canvas. The piping and facing 
may also be pressed open after being sewed on, if the 
material is not too heavy — say about the thickness of the 
piping — the edge may be pressed open, and cut down to 
the size of the piping desired. The piping may then be 
turned over, and instead of basting it, it may be sewed in 
the seam with a backstitch, using a very fine thread. Care 
should be taken to have the piping of uniform width before 
fastening the inside to the canvas. 

Baste the facing on, and trim the edge so as to leave a 
small seam to be turned in and felled close to the stitches 
of the piping, taking care to have the same width of piping 
on both sides of the edge. 

On materials where the facing can be felled on a raw 
edge, trim its edges in such a way that the outside shall 
extend over a trifle, so that the upper part of the cloth can 
be pushed in with the needle while felling near the piping ; 
care must be taken not to let the stitches show. Stitch 
close to piping in such a manner that it catches facing just 
where it was felled. Piping should look as clean on the 
facing side as on the outside. 

On light-weight material, baste the facing on as if it 
were done without piping. Sew around edges close to 
piping; cut around facing, turn around and baste to the 
edges with a back stitch so that the cloth on either side is 
close to cord of piping. Stitch edges 1-16 of an inch from 
the piping ; stitching should be the same distance on facing. 
If carefully done this makes a very good edge. 

Plain Edges. — The seam should be fastened to the 
canvas; turn back facing and fasten it to canvas with a 

110 



THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL 



fine thread. Stitches must not be pulled too tight, other- 
wise the marks from the stitches will show. 

Piping may also be made from heavy satin lining, the 
stripes to be cut bias from a single layer of cloth, in order 
to avoid the shading on one side. 

When cut in this way, piping will make up better. A 
broader binding of satin may also be made by the same 
method. 

Caution. — In sewing on piping by any method care 
should be taken not to have too short a stitch, lest it stretch 
the edges too much. 



SECTION LXXIV 

PUTTING ON VELVET COLLARS 

Prepare collar for velvet. At the front collar seam, the 
facing is to be turned in the same way as if it were pre- 
pared for a cloth collar. 

Put canvas in front of corners, double it up at collar 
seam, and pad it. It is also well to stitch the collar on the 
edge, before the velvet is put on. Also have canvas and 
under collar solid. By putting on the collar this way the 
front seam of collar is made even with the facing. If it 
is not done in this way the velvet stands up higher than 
the facing, and the collar doesn't look well. 

Turn iron over on the side, lay a damp press cloth over 
it, put velvet on top of cloth and steam it; then remove 
press cloth and put velvet on bare iron, pulling gently from 
one side to the other, until the velvet is dry. Next grasp 
velvet firmly with both hands at the very edges and stretch 

111 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



it widthwise over the iron, so as to obtain the necessary- 
length on the outside collar and shortness at the crease. 

Basting Velvet on Collar. — Start basting at crease of 
collar. Lift collar and baste collar-stand from the cloth 
side through the velvet. Crease the collar and baste with 
as few stitches as possible. On light-colored velvets, espe- 
cially gray, put on the velvet without basting, pinning it 
instead with the finest needles, say No. 10 or 12, as every 
stitch put into the velvet leaves a hole. Fell first the front 
ends, taking care not to let the velvet slip, for in most 
cases either one side or the other of the collar is apt to 
stretch when it is felled to the lapel, causing the corner to 
curl upward. 

The middle part of the collar should be felled sepa- 
rately, and the hanger should be sewed on top of velvet 
to keep the latter in place. 

In basting velvet do not use silk thread, but soft cotton, 
first drawing it between the nails of the thumb and fore- 
finger to take out the stiffness. 



FROCK COATS 



Marking Stitches. — May be made in the same manner 
as already described except on the back of the skirt. 
Basting-stitches should be put in the pleats instead of 
marking-stitches. The rounded part of the skirt should 
be pressed a trifle short. The skirts should then be opened, 
and the pleats pressed open. This will make both skirts 
alike. This process will not only secure more accurate 
results, but will save the labor of putting in marking- 

112 



FROCK COATS 



stitches, splitting them open, and basting and pressing each 
skirt separately, besides avoiding the usual result of find- 
ing one skirt longer than the other. 



Basting and Pressing Seams. — In basting the side body 
to the forepart, a notch should be made halfway between 
the underarm and waist, if it has not already been placed 
there. The length of the side body, from the notch to the 
waist, shouhi be a trifle less than the forepart, and the 
length of the side body between the notch and the under- 
arm seam is to be from a quarter to three-eighths of an 
inch greater than the corresponding length on the forepart. 
This extra length is to be frilled in about three inches below 
the underarm. This method will give a clean effect at the 
back of the arm, and will create a hollow effect at the waist 
when pressed open. The pressing open of the seam should 
begin at the top and the fullness pressed toward the inside 
of the forepart. Care should be taken not to stretch the 
upper part of the seam. Toward the bottom the seam 
should be stretched enough to create a hollow effect at the 
middle of the side body. The side body may be folded in 
half and pressed short between the notch and the bottom. 
The crease formed by this process may be taken out when 
pressing open the back seam. 



If forepart has front seam, press it to create a straight 
line, and the length produced on each side of the iron must 
be pressed short in order to create the required hollow 
effect. All other shaping and pressing should be done 
from the side toward the middle of the forepart, and the 
front edge should not be pressed short. The middle of 
the chest being the most prominent part of the body, it is 
necessary to have the edge pressed to the natural length. 
If it is pressed short, the shoulder-point will be forced out 
of place, and the side will not fit closely to the waist line. 

113 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



Other instructions for shaping the shoulders will be 
found in Section 29. 

Basting on the Skirts. — Before basting on the skirt, 
the waist line should be marked straight, as irregularities 
have been caused by pressing the seams. A stay of very 
fine material, about five inches in length, should be basted 
in the waist seam, beginning at the front edge. It is cus- 
tomary to put a stay also in the side body, but it is much 
better to put in a thread to prevent stretching, as this 
makes the seam more pliable. The skirt should be pressed 
in shape before basting, taking care to press in sufficient 
fullness to give room over the hip. Begin basting the 
skirt at the side body. Baste as far as the middle of the 
side body without allowing any fullness, but from this 
point some fullness should be provided, increasing it over 
the hip, and then gradually diminishing it toward the front 
where the stay begins. Over the stay the skirt should be 
basted smooth. In order to determine whether the fullness 
has been properly distributed take up the cloth at the 
seams, with the edge in the right hand and the side body 
in the left, and stretch it out. If the fullness falls in 
straight lines it will also drape properly on the body; but 
if it falls in bias lines, the fullness must be so divided that 
it will fall straight. 

Before the skirt is sewed on, the fullness is to be 
pressed into place in order to create the required room over 
the hip. The skirt should be sewed on by hand. If the 
material is either too heavy or too delicate to get a good 
seam by hand, the front part where the stay is placed may 
be stitched by machine. The other parts of the seam must 
be hand work. 

Basting on the Back. — A notch should be placed in the 
side body and back just below the shoulder blade in order 

114 



FROCK COATS 



to preserve the balance by furnishing a proper guide for 
distributing the fullness of the back. A few inches below 
the armhole seam, where the most prominent part of the 
blade is located, the back should go in with a little more 
fullness ; toward the waist line, however, the two sides of 
the seam should be kept even as far as a point parallel 
with the notch of the side body below the underarm seam. 
Between the hollow of the waist and the waist seam, the 
back is to go in a trifle longer, so that when pressed the 
side body will be shortened in the center and fit to the 
hollow of the waist. From the waist down to the bottom 
where the skirt is basted on the back, care should be taken 
not to have the skirt basted in too full. Great care must 
be taken to have both sides of the back basted in exactly 
alike and pressed alike, as otherwise a twist will be pro- 
duced and the garment will hang to one side. 

The upper part of the back seam must be sewed by 
hand, and be put flat on the half-moon block for pressing 
the seam open. It should be laid on the block straight, as 
it was cut. At the curve of the seam there will be a length, 
which must be pressed short and inward toward the side 
body seam, and care should be taken in this process not to 
stretch the armhole. Then press the back smooth so that 
the center seam will have a straight line. If the pressing 
is not done in this way, there will be an oval formed at 
the center seam, which appears as if it should be taken out. 
But if this is done the garment will be tight over the 
shoulder blades, and a fullness will be produced at the back 
of arm. 

The only other thing to be specially noted in reference 
to body coats is to take care to provide a full chest, as they 
are usually worn over stiff-bosomed shirts, particularly a 
full-dress. 



115 



PART IV. 

Alterations 



THE ORDINARY DEFECTS AND HOW TO REMEDY THEM 

In order to secure that individuality of fit and style 
which is the chief recommendation of the custom-tailor, it 
is often necessary after the try-on, and even after the 
garment has been completed, to make minor alterations. 
To do this scientifically, expeditiously and economically, it 
is necessary to know the correct method and to become 
adept in applying it. Much valuable time is frequently 
lost in "busheling," and many a garment is spoiled if the 
cause of the defect is not fuly understood. The following 
ten defects cover practically all the alterations which ever 
need to be made in coats. The method described has been 
shown by experience to be the simplest and best. If any 
difficulties should arise not covered by these samples, a 
letter addressed to the author will receive prompt atten- 
tion. 

HOW TO TRY ON AND MARK FOR 
ALTERATIONS 

Inspection. — Put co$t on customer and allow him to 
assume a natural position and adjust the coat himself. 
Notice now whether the foreparts are in balance, and but- 
tons and buttonholes directly opposite each other. The 

117 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



next test is to put the hand in each armhole to see whether 
either is too high or too deep. The third test is to button 
the coat and step away from the customer a considerable 
distance in order to get a good view and to read the altera- 
tions that must be made. The fitter should notxarefully 
every part of the garment before returning to the cus- 
tomer. If there is a large amount of alteration needed; 
he should write it down in detail, while he is at a distance, 
because after returning to the side of the customer he 
would no longer notice all the particulars. The procedure 
here noted is necessary where there is no supervising 
fitter. 

Marking Defects. — Collars and shoulders are to be 
pinned or marked first. The back should next be marked 
to indicate whether it is to be shortened or lengthened. 
The fitter then passes to the front and unbuttons the coat 
to see whether the balance of the foreparts has been 
restored by the pinning that he has done. He should then 
observe whether the corners of the foreparts have the 
same length and are cut away exactly alike. Finally, he 
buttons the coat and marks the sleeve length as the last 
step. If the sleeve length should be marked at any earlier 
point in the inspection, subsequent alterations will disturb 
the length. 

The inspection and marking should be done with the 
utmost despatch so that the customer does not get tired 
and thereby fail to preserve the proper position. 

In order to find out whether the collar will neither fall 
away from nor ride up on the neck, ask the customer to 
be seated and assume a position as if using the hands in 
front of him, or folding the hands. If then the collar falls 
away from the neck, the back is too narrow over the 
shoulder blades. If it rides up on the neck it is too tight 
over the shoulder. 

118 



ALTERATIONS 



1. BREAK IN FOREPART IN FRONT OF ARM 

If the forepart is too long between the top of the 
shoulder and the lower part of the armhole, it will wrinkle 
or "break" in front of the arm, and the collar on that side 
falls away from the neck. This defect is due to the fact 
that one shoulder of the customer was very slightly lower 
than the other, a deformity which was not detected in 
taking the measurements, both sides of the strap being 
measured exactly alike. Another result of this deformity 
is to make the sleeve too long. In some cases, also, the 
sleeve hangs too far back. 

There being but one cause for all of these defects, all 
of them may be cured by one and the same operation. This 
operation consists in "crooking" the shoulder; that is, 
shifting it forward as much as it FALLS AWAY FROM 




HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Figure 1. 



120 



ALTERATIONS 



THE NECK. Mark this distance as indicated between 
the two arrows in Fig. 1. 

Diagram 1 shows the shoulder ripped open and also 
the method of making the alteration. The dotted lines 
show the original forepart, while the solid lines show the 
alteration required for the defective lower side. In mak- 
ing this alteration it is necessary to straighten the line of 
the gorge. This is done by raising the back half the dis- 
tance that the shoulder is shifted, as is indicated by the 
distance between the dotted and solid lines of back.. This 
alteration should be made in the pattern in order that the 
defect may not occur again in. subsequent orders. 




Diagram 2. 



121 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Figure 2. 



122 



ALTERATIONS 



2. BREAK IN BACK OF ARM 

If the back part shows a wrinkle near the armhole, as 
indicated in Figure 2, take off the part included between 
the solid and dotted lines shown in the Figure. The Dia- 
gram, No. 2, shows the changes to be made in the pattern. 



3. LOW SHOULDER 



throughout its 



In cases where one shoulder is low 
whole length, and the collar falls away on the lower side 
only, crook the shoulder and shorten it at the collar 34 mcn 
or more. At the shoulder-point of the arm shorten ]/ 2 inch 
or more. The dotted line in Figure 3 shows where the 
collar is to be shortened. The amount of shorteninsf is 




HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Figure 3. 



124 



ALTERATIONS 



shown by the distance between the dotted line and the 
amount of shifting is shown by the distance between the 
two arrows. Diagram 3 shows how to alter the pattern. 
Straighten the line at the neck, for in most cases when a 
shoulder is either crooked or straightened, it creates a 
corner instead of a circle. In the Diagram the arrows 
point to the altered lines. 



4. WRINKLES BELOW COLLAR 

If there is a surplus of material below the collar, in the 
center of the back, it is caused in most cases by the shoul- 
der being too tight over the heavy part of the muscle at 



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c/zru 



Diagram 4. 
125 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Figure 4. 



126 



ALTERATIONS 



the back of the shoulder between the neck and the arm. 
In such cases rip the shoulder in the center, and pull the 
back down until the wrinkles disappear. You will then be 
able to judge how much to let out over the round of the 
shoulder. See Figure 4 and Diagram 4. The arrow points 
to the places where the shoulder and back are to be let out. 



5. WRINKLES BELOW COLLAR AND BACK 

OF ARM 

In this case it is necessary to let out the forepart as 
shown by the dotted line above the solid line. This will 




HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




ALTERATIONS 



remedy the wrinkle below the collar. To cure the wrinkle 
at the back of arm, take off a trifle at the shoulder point 
at back of arm as shown in the Figure. The Diagram 
shows how much must be added to the pattern over the 
round of the shoulder, and how much must be taken off at 
the point of shoulder back of the arm. The Diagram 
shows also how much must be added to the forepart. 



6. ERECT FIGURE— HEAVY NECK AND 
HIGH SHOULDER 

It often happens in the case of a man with a heavy 
neck, high shoulders and very erect figure, that a wrinkle 
below the back collar may be remedied by letting out the 
center seam below the collar, and also making room for 
the round of the shoulder by altering the seam as indi- 
cated in Figure 6 and Diagram 6. 




HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




ALTERATIONS 



The dotted line in Figure 6 shows how much the center 
seam is to be let out. The double line on the shoulder 
shows how much, the shoulder is to be let out. Diagram 6 
shows the alterations to be made in the pattern. The 
arrows point to the solid lines resulting from the altera- 
tions of the pattern. 



7. TO GIVE EASE OVER HIP AND REDUCE 
SURPLUS IN FRONT 

In a good many cases after a garment has been fin- 
ished, the back will strike over the hips, and give the effect 
of being too tight, while at the same time there is a sur- 
plus at the bottom button, the upper part of the garment 
fitting perfectly. To remedy this defect, put the back in 
shorter over the hollow of the waist, beginning at the 
heavy part of the blade. When a notch is necessary to 
keep the balance, mark a distance of from 4 to A]/ 2 inches 
from upper notch, and make the notch in the back from 
Yz to 24 inches less, so that the back will be so much 
shorter over the hollow of the waist. This operation will 
carry the surplus of material from the bottom button in 
front to the back. It is also necessary to draw in a trifle 
at the bottom in the front as far as the pocket so as to 
bring the bottom corners closer to the body. See Fig. 7. 

Figure 7 shows the tightness over the hip. Figure 7a 
shows the drape developed over the hip after the garment 
is pinned up. Figure 7b shows how the forepart was 
brought backward, making it fit correctly at the bottom 
button. The lines in front of the Figure show how much 
the coat opened up at the bottom. Diagram 7 shows how 
simple and economical this operation is. The notches be- 
low the waist show how much the back was shortened. 
Care must be taken to press the forepart short. 

131 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Figure 7. 



132 



ALTERATIONS 




Figure 7a 



133 



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Figure 7b 



134 



ALTERATIONS 




HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



8. WHEN A COAT IS TOO LARGE OVER THE 
UPPER BUTTON AFTER BEING FINISHED 

Should the garment after being finished be correct 
over the upper button but too small over the bottom but- 
ton, with too much flare in the back, it must be carefully 
studied to discover the cause of the defect. It may come 
from the back being too short over the blades, between the 
depth of armhole and the top of neck. The shoulders may 
be too crooked, and the strap too long. In either case, 
straighten the shoulder, shorten strap at the shoulder 
points, and restore a good line at the neck, because shift- 
ing the shoulders generally makes an angle. This opera- 
tion lengthens the back, reduces the surplus at the top 
button, takes away the flare from the back, and gives 
width to the front at the bottom button. See Diagram 8. 

The arrows indicate the alterations to be made in the 
pattern. The solid lines show the result of the alterations 
in the pattern. To economize labor in this alteration, only 
the collar, sleeve and shoulder are to be ripped open. 



9. TO REDUCE WIDTH OF FOREPART OVER 
UPPER BUTTON 

Diagram 9 shows the same defect in the garment as 
Diagram 8, except that the chest is too large, with a sur- 
plus over the upper button. To reduce the surplus without 
disturinb the front edge take in under the underarm seam 
by one-half the amount of the surplus lap. Clear out the 
armhole to have the same line as before. This reduces the 
surplus at the upper button, and gives the right width over 
the chest. 

All the foregoing changes in shortening or lengthen- 
ing the shoulders destroy the hang of the sleeves, and in 
most cases they must be reset. 

136 



ALTERATIONS 




Diagram 8 
137 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Diagram 9. 
138 



ALTERATIONS 



10. TOO SHORT A BACK 

In case the back is merely short and the length of strap 
is right, and the garment fits well around the collar, then 
pass up the back according to necessity, using good judg- 
ment. The forepart then goes down, gives the needed 
width over the bottom button, and reduces the flare in the 
back. See Diagram 10. 

The Diagram shows how much the back is to be shifted 
up. An economical way of altering for this defect is to 
piece on at the bottom of the back for the turn-up. The 
arrows indicate where the points of back and forepart 
should come together. 



11. HOW TO FIT A SQUARE-SHOULDERED 

FIGURE 

In this case the coat will be loose around the neck and 
high at the collar, while the depth of armhole is correct. 
To remedy this defect, rip shoulder, collar and sleeves, and 
follow the alterations indicated in Diagram 11. 



12. HOW TO ALTER FOR A STOOPING FIGURE 

To alter for this figure, the pattern should be cor- 
rected as shown in Diagram 12. The amount to be taken 
off the forepart is shown by the space between the solid 
and dotted lines. The back of the pattern should be split 
between the top and depth of scye, and should be opened 
up enough to give the necessary length over the center, 
and a wedge inserted to keep the pattern togther. The 
sleeves, collar and shoulder are now to be opened up, and 
the pattern is to be balanced from the depth of armhole. 
This is the most economic method of altering where more 
length is required over the center back between depth and 
neck. 

139 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Diagram 10. 



140 



ALTERATIONS 




Diagram 11. 



141 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 




Figure 11 — Square Shoulders. 



142 



ALTERATIONS 




HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



Figure 12 — Stooping-. 



144 



PART V. 

The Deiner 

Sectional Shop Ticket and 

Ledger Records 

The "Sectional Shop Ticket" is attached to every coat 
that goes through the shop. Every workman who per- 
forms one of the sectional operations, clips the corre- 
sponding coupon and places it in an envelope, which at the 
end of the day's work is deposited in a convenient box 
near the time clock. Every coupon on a ticket has writ- 
ten upon it the number of the job to which the ticket is 
attached. 

Records Progress of Garment. — The condition of the 
shop ticket at any time indicates how far the making of 
the garment has progressed, and also when it will be 
finished, for the reason that the time required for com- 
pleting any sections is accurately known. 

A Check on the Worker. — The coupons deposited with 
worker's envelope at the end of the day's work tell how 

145 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



many sections he has handled during the day, and what 
salary he is fairly entitled to receive. This is not a "piece- 
work" system, for the workers are paid a weekly salary. 
It is, however, a method of securing a standard quantity 
of work of standard quality in return for the wages paid. 



Note: — Sectional Shop Tickets, Checking Ledger Sheets, 
Cost-Accounting Ledger Sheets and Pay Roll 
Sheets may be obtained of the F. F. Deiner Co., 
No. 1 East 42nd Street, New York. 



146 



SHOP TICKET AND RECORDS 



THE DEINER SECTIONAL SHOP TICKET 

Order No • - Date 

Shop No Quantity 

Name Coat 



Seams Collar . . 

Pockets -. Facing . 

Sleeve. Cuffs. . . 

Remarks 



75- 


-Extra 




73- 


-Piping 


edges 


71- 


-Felling 


braid 


69- 


-Felling 


silk facing 



67 — Basting silk facing 

(Omitted 
9 — Basting haircloth on canvas 

7 — Basting pockets 
1st operation 

5 — Machinist 

1st operation 

3 — Basting underarm seams 
1st operation 

1 — Fitter 



76 — Extra 




74 — Velvet 


;ollar 


72- 


-Corded 


edges 


70- 


-Basting 


braid 



68 — Basting silk collar 

Numbers) 
10 — Padding canvas 

8 — Machinist 

2nd operation 

6 — Underpresser 
1st operation 

A — Overcasting seams 



2 — Marking stitches 



The shop number must be filled in on every coupon. The coupons 
are clipped from the bottom upward. 

NOTE — The shop tickets may be obtained in quantity of the 
F. F. DEINER CO., No. 1 East 42nd St., New York. 



147 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



Checking Ledger. — The form of the Checking Ledger 
may be seen in the example given below. It is ruled for 
recording the order number of each garment, the names 
of the workmen employed on the manufacture of each gar- 
ment, the number of each section on which he has worked, 
the date of try-on, date of delivery, and any other data 
called for by the shop. As the coat progresses through 
the several sections, the bookkeeper enters in this ledger 
at the close of each day, from the coupons of the workers, 
each one's number under the sections in which he has 
worked for each garment that has passed through his 
hands. 







CHECKING LEDGER 






Order No. 


Shop No. 


Worker's No. Kind of Coat 


Try-on 


Delivery 


500 


100 


5 S. B. Sack 


5-13-'20 


6-20-'20 


501 


101 


6 D. B. Sack 


4-12-'20 


5-18-'20 


502 


102 


7 Overcoat 
SECTION NUMBERS 


7- 9-'20 


7-14-'20 


1 2 3 


4 5 6 


7 8 9 10 11 12 


13 14. 


15 16 


5 7 6 


7 6 5 


5 7 5 6 6 5 
SECTION NUMBERS 


7 7 




17 18 


19 20 21 


22 23 24 25 26 27 


28 29 


30 31 



This record is for two main purposes. In the first 
place it tells just how far a garment has progressed in 
making. Second, it shows what workmen have taken part 
in the making, and on which sections they worked. If the 
manager is asked when a certain garment will be ready 
for try-on or delivery, he has only to glance at this check- 
ing ledger to find out precisely when it will be ready. For 
example, in the above record it is evident that the three 
garments have reached Section 14, and that workmen 
whose numbers are 5, 6, and 7 have taken part in the mak- 
ing. It appears also that workman No. 5 has done the 
work in sections 1, 6, 7, 9, 12, and so on for other work- 
men. This part of the record is important to prevent the 
stealing of coupons or mistakes in clipping them — not to 
use the opprobrious term. 

148 



SHOP TICKET AND RECORDS 



Cost-Accounting System. — The bookkeeper opens each 
workman's envelope, and enters upon the Cost Accounting 
Blank the workman's name or number, his weekly wages, 
the section or sections in which he has worked during the 
day, the number or numbers of the garments on which he 
has worked, and the number of hours and minutes he has 
spent on each garment. This record is filled out for each 
day, and at the end of the week the total time spent on the 
garments manufactured during the week is added up, and 
also the wages earned by each workman. 

This record also furnishes the data for computing the 
cost of each garment and the average cost of the work 
turned out during the week. It is also an index of the 
efficiency of each worker. If he is unable to turn out the 
average number of garments, he may be transferred to 
another section in which he may prove more efficient. 

THE COST-ACCOUNTING LEDGER 

Worker's Salary Section Garment Monday, Total Cost 
No. 



$44 1 102 4x52—100 (8 hrs.) $8.00 



Section 


Garment 


Monday, 


Total 


Nos. 


No. 


etc. 






100 


4x45—180 






101 


4x15— 60 


480 


1 


102 


4x52—100 


(8 hrs.) 




103 


4x35—140 






100 


120 






101 


120 


480 


2 


102 


120 


(8 hrs.) 




103 


120 





$50 2 102 120 (8 hrs.) $9.12 



It is evident that if this record is carried for the entire 
week, covering all the workmen and all the sections, in- 
cluding "extras," the totals in the last column will show 
the total cost of the garments made during the week, and 
also the average cost of each. When it is desirable to 
close this account, the garments not completed at that date 
may be left out of the record, and the cost of manufacture 
determined for those garments that are fully completed. 

149 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



It is evident that a dishonest workman would have the 
opportunity of clipping coupons to which he is not en- 
titled — not having performed the work — and put them in 
his own envelope. When, however, the garment passed 
to the worker whose part in the work was indicated on the 
stolen coupons, he would notice that they were missing. 
The foreman would then issue to such worker a duplicate 
coupon and keep a record of it. When entering the 
coupons in the Checking Ledger, the duplicate coupon 
should be entered, and the stolen cupons held until pay day, 
when the matter can be adjusted to the entire satisfaction 
of the manager. 



HOW TO TAKE CARE OF TRIMMINGS 
AND BUTTONS 

Have a case of pigeonholes alphabetically arranged. 
The part of the ticket that goes with the try-on is to be cut 
off, and the other part is to be tied up with the trimmings. 
This part, which is the top of the ticket (see Page 00) 
bears the name of the customer, with the surname written 
first. 

Provide small envelopes for the buttons and the button- 
hole twist, particularly if the twist is colored. Mark the 
envelope in the same manner as the shop ticket tied up 
with the trimmings, giving the name and order number of 
the job. The man who receives the coats to be re-marked 
after the try-on, should get out the envelopes or bundles 
containing the trimmings and buttons and place them in a 
file on the table where the buttonhole-makers and button- 
sewers are at work. 



150 



SHOP TICKET AND RECORDS 



OTHER SHOP RECORDS 

When garments are sent to the shop to be made for 
try-on each must receive a "shop number" and be entered 
in the shop register. The shop number must also be writ- 
ten on the order ticket. All specifications which are on 
the order ticket should be transferred to the shop ticket. 
Write also on the sleeve coupons whatever instructions 
applies to them. The number of the shop ticket is to be 
written on EVERY SECTIONAL COUPON of the shop 
ticket and the fitter should put the shop number of every 
garment on white pieces of lining and sew one on each of 
the following parts: sleeves, each forepart, back, facing, 
and under collar, so that the parts of a garment cannot be 
misplaced; this is especially important when there is more 
than one garment cut from the same material. Particu- 
larly the under collar and sleeves must be marked in this 
way. 

The sleeve coupons, which are indicated by a heavy 
line on the shop ticket, should be cut off by the re-marker, 
who should see to it that the directions for making the 
cuffs are written on the sleeve ticket. If there is anything 
special concerning the sleeves, it may be filled in under 
"remarks," and this ticket should go with the sleeves. 



151 



HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 



TABLE SHOWING WAGES FOR 1 HOUR AND 1 DAY 

From $9.00 to $50.00 per 44-Hour Week 



Week Rate 


lHour 


8 Hours 


Week Rate 


lHour 


8 Hours 


$9.00 


$0.20 


$1.64 


$30.00 


$0.68 


$5.45 


10.00 


.23 


1.82 


31.00 


.70 


5.64 


11.00 


.25 


2.00 


32.00 


.73 


5.82 


12.00 


.27 


2.18 


33.00 


.75 


6.00 


13.00 


.30 


2.36 


34.00 


.77 


6.18 


14.00 


.32 


2.55 


35.00 


.80 


6.36 


15.00 


.34 


2.73 


36.00 


.82 


6.55 


16.00 


.36 


2.91 


37.00 


.84 


6.73 


17.00 


.39 


3.09 


38.00 


.86 


6.91 


18.00 


.41 


3.27 


39.00 


.89 


7.09 


19.00 


.43 


3.45 


40.00 


.91 


7.27 


20.00 


.45 


3.64 


41.00 


.93 


7.45 


21.00 


.48 


3.82 


42.00 


.95 


7.64 


22.00 


.50 


4.00 


43.00 


.98 


7.82 


23.00 


.52 


4.18 


44.00 


1.00 


8.00 


24.00 


.55 


4.36 


45.00 


1.02 


8.18 


25.00 


.57 


4.55 


46.00 


1.05 


8.36 


26.00 


.59 


4.73 


47.00 


1.07 


8.55 


27.00 


.61 


4.91 


48.00 


1.09 


8.73 


28.00 


.64 


5.09 


49.00 


1.11 


8.91 


29.00 


.66 


5.27 


50.00 


1.14 


9.09 



152 



^ 



